Monday, March 30, 2009

Just returned from Joe's Valley. It was a great albeit brief trip. I had a blast hanging out with Becky, Chandler, Monica, Alan, Amna, Lianne, Noah, Siemay, and everyone else that we hung out with over the course of the week. The highlight of the trip, for me at least, has to be my last-day of the trip revenge send of 'The Wind Below'. My first attempt at this problem came exactly a year and ten days prior to the second attempt. The first did not end well for me. My second attempt (without the heelhook beta) ended with success.

Chandler and Becky both had great last-day sends as well. Scott, climbing for his third consecutive day, managed to put the outstanding 'Beyond Life' to rest. Becky managed to dispatch the somewhat heady and equally outstanding 'Wills of Fire'. She did it with the dramatic flair of Siemay's send just moments before and earned herself a second flapper to boot.

To recap the rest of the trip I've put together another poor quality video. I decided to use Vimeo this time because of the better resolution. Now if I can just get a tripod and an HD camera you might get something decent out of me. This video is a bit longer. I'm curious if this approach is better than putting together several shorts. Maybe a mix is best? Anyhoo, here it is.

Joe's Valley09 from justin alarcon on Vimeo.

Thursday, March 26, 2009

I'm in a MAJOR Motion Picture!!!

Check this out! I'm so excited, I think I'm going to go growl at something. Finally, after all this time I'm making my big screen debut. See if you can guess which character I am.

Also...Today was a rest day for Becky and I, but Scott, Monica, and Lianne decided to climb at the (slightly) warmer area Triassic. I'd never been before so we met up with them to scope the place out. We only visited one area and it seemed pretty sweet although a bit lacking in the more difficult boulder problems. A couple lines stood out, 'Desparete,' 'Lemonhead,' and a cool slab that isn't in the topo. The place is definitely worth a look.

Here is Lianne sending the cool unknown slab.

Wednesday, March 25, 2009

Joe's Valley

Well, Joe's Valley is great. The problems are fun, aesthetic, and kind on the ego. The weather...well, its been cooperative so far, but its been reluctant. The wind has been the main issue. If it were not for the wind it would be perfect here right now. Snow is forecast for tomorrow and with gusts up to 45mph I think we're going to take back to back rest days.

Did some hiking today and looked for new boulders. I'd spied one in particular yesterday up on a hillside that looked promising. It was. Also, went to look for some of Isaac Caldiero's new problems. Found those too. There's some nice ones up there, I wish I'd brought my camera.

Alas, this trip is already too short. Each time I come here I leave feeling woefully unsatisfied with the length of the trip. Maybe if the weather sucks in CA when I get back I'll turn around and come back to Utah. Hmmm...

Monica on 'Filla Void'

Wednesday, March 18, 2009

An Irish Theme

Well I didn't get back to 'Haroun' so it'll probably have to wait till next year, oh well. The crew wasn't motivated and I wasn't going to try it without a mess of pads. Tried 'Stained Glass' for twenty minutes or so and that was cool. Its easily some of the best rock in Bishop and I was psyched to make some progress on that.

My tips started sweating this weekend for the first time in a month or so. It was frustrating to have crappy skin again. Thank god for Antihydral.

Well, since yesterday was St. Patrick's Day I decided to make today's video fit the theme. Would've been better to post yesterday, I know, but I gots no internets at my house so DEAL!

So without further ado...

If you can't get enough of watching me climb stuff you're in luck. Dave Nunnely posted a video of Randy and I on youtube.

Monday, March 16, 2009

A Bit More Bishop

I'm down in Bishop again. My primary motivation for this brief visit was to put "Haroun and the Sea of Stories" to bed. Unfortunately I keep punting at the top. I'll try again tomorrow, then its on to someplace else.

Yesterday I found myself out at Dale's Camp again. This time Nunsquach (Dave) was there and I witnessed him put on a clinic. A slew of younger, stronger, and handsomer lads and one equally strong lass were trying the "Zen Flute", a problem defined by the large dyno at it's end. Dave strolls up, having sat around without climbing for a while, and sends the rig first try and making it look like v2 (its v10). It was so fucking awesome I couldn't help but laugh. I'm pretty sure Dave could do this problem with a 20lbs. weight belt on. Alas, he refused to repeat the feat for my camera so as punishment I'm showing him flailing on on a much easier problem in the video below. Also, for those unfamiliar with the dog in the video, its schitso. It repeatedly jumps around snapping at invisible things that only it can see. Apparently its been known to do this for hours at a time.

As always the company has been great. This trip has certainly been no exception.

'A Maze of Death,' I will return for thee next year.

Tuesday, March 10, 2009

Spring Training...

...of the baseball variety that is.

Went to Phoenix this weekend with my dad and my younger sister, Brooke. Watched some baseball, ate some...correction, lot's of food, and hung out in the sun. Nice.

Brooke and beer.

They're everywhere I turn!

Peter Magowan, formerly the Giants CEO (he is still a principal owner) and me, baller.

Sunday, March 8, 2009


This is how I look on the inside... Thank you Shannon for the link.

Friday, March 6, 2009

Giving Mandala the Finger

Here's a clip of me not having much success on the iconic boulder problem.

Mandala, that frustrating vixen from Paul B on Vimeo.

Thanks to Paul for posting.

Wednesday, March 4, 2009


Just got back from my first visit back to Bishop, CA in almost a year (eleven and a half months, to be exact). It was a really nice trip albeit shorter than I would have liked. I g0t to hang out with a lot of my favorite people and climb on some cool problems, most of which were new to me too. The highlight for me on the climbing front was a quick ascent of the problem 'Xavier's Roof'. I had been wanting to try this problem for a while and was delighted to do it in a singe short session, especially after falling short on a couple of other problems. Really the best part of this trip was the time spent hanging with my friends and with Turtle. Turtle pulled her weight this week by carrying my water on several occasions. What mule!

All that water is heavy.

Randy making the 'Buttermilker' look easy :)

Beth on the 'Buttermilk Stem'

Peanut hitching a ride.

Here, of course, is a video of some problems from the last 10 days or so.

I'm headed to Phoenix this weekend to spend some time with my Dad and my sister and to watch a little spring training baseball. Till next time...