Friday, August 29, 2008


Taking a break from "Yabo" to let sore muscles have a few nights off. I will be heading up to Way Lake on Sunday to climb with the east bay crew though, that'll be fun. I'd like to try the roof project Jeff showed me last time. Not sure if its even a project anymore. Anyway, enjoy these pictures of some of my new friends.

Wednesday, August 27, 2008

Tuesday, August 26, 2008


Went to Berkeley this weekend with friends, lots of them. It was fun climbing and drinking with them all. It would have been even more fun if I could have stayed longer to get really crunk like John did (how's the hangover buddy?).

For all of the amazing climbing talent that have gotten their start there and for all of the history of the place you'd never guess that Indian Rock/Mortor Rock has some of the shittiest rock I've ever climbed on. Don't get me wrong, the place has a certain charm and there are some good problems, but my god that is some crap rock!

Going out again tonight/tomorrow morning after work....giggle psyched

Friday, August 22, 2008

So Much Psyche So Little Time

I'm tired of feeling like my motivation and psyche are being handcuffed by life, and by "life" I mean work, injuries, sleeping, eating, ect. In light of this revelation I went bouldering this morning after I got off work at 4 am. It went something like this: open door to house, grab snack, eat snack while watching the Olympics replay, change out of uniform, fill lantern with fuel, warm up by hanging on door frame doing pull-ups and front levers, and head out of house to the amazing "Yabo Roof". It paid off too! I had my best session yet. I was able to climb up to the big move out right to a slopey pinch, and it felt good doing it. Now I just need to get someone to wake up early and join me out there. Actually, it would be cool for some company but I'll take care of business either way.

Thursday, August 21, 2008

The List

As is my list. I will just say that some of these are obscure as all hell and may have been done only once. This is not a "most classic" list, just the problems I think are the best. Even at that I find myself a little unsure about some of the ones on this list, particularly the easier ones. Also, those referred to as "unnamed x" are listed as they are listed in Matt Wilder's new guidebook.

The Presidential Traverse, Presidential
Mr. Pink Eyes, Sentinel
High and Mighty, Church Bowl
Unnamed #8, Camp 4
Unnamed #28, Ahwahnee

Duck Hit Traverse, Camp 4
Great White, Horse Trail
Initial Friction, Camp 4
The Linen Line, Curry
Unnamed #2, Curry

Circuit Breaker, Curry
Double Decker, Medicine Clinic
The Ahwahneechee Stand, Ahwahnee
Falk’s Fracture, Lower Falls
Tortuga, Lower Falls

Once Upon A Time, Candyland
The J.L.M.B.P., Candyland
The Wave, The Wave
Triple Jump, Happy Isles
Justin’s John-dis, Candyland

Ahwahnee Arete, Ahwahnee
Woodward Arete, Camp 4
Zorro, Curry
The Fall Classic, Happy Isles
Middle Child, Ahwahnee

Hammerhead, Camp 4
So Good, Cathedral
Blue Suede Shoes, Camp 4
Pygmy Horse, Illouete Canyon
Cocaine Corner, Camp 4

Atlantis, Intersection
The Diamond Left, Candyland
Spanish Fly, Sentinel
The Woodyard Arete, Woodyard
Shiver Me Timbers, Camp 4

No Holds Bard, Sentinel
The King, Cathedral
The Hexcentric, Cathedral
French Quarter, Bridalveil
Torque, Le Conte

A Primate’s Memoir, The Garden
Flatline, Le Conte
King Cobra, Camp 4
Midnight Lightning, Camp 4
Noah’s Arc, Health Clinic

Motorcade, Happy Isles
Panic Room, Curry
Pride, Crystals
Heart of Darkness, Intersection
The Force, Camp 4

Across the Tracks, Knobby Wall
Thriller, Camp 4
Drive On, Horse trail
Diesel Power, Crystals
King Air, Le Conte

Narcissus, Le Conte
Pine Box, Happy Isles
Ring Tail, Ahwahnee
Wall to Wall Carpet SDS, Bridalveil
The Shield, Le Conte

Park Life, Lower Falls
Yabo Roof, Yabo
The Shadow Warrior, Candyland
Dogwood, Woodyard
Dominator, Camp 4

Tuesday, August 19, 2008

New Projects...psyched!

Kevin was in California for a few days to visit his family and I was lucky enough to have him stop by for a single night session. He was particularly eager to try a few of the problems featured in the new Dosage flick and I was of course keen to have a go as well. 

First up was "Park Life," a Tim Clifford test piece that has always intimidated me. This line is seemingly a very temperature dependent problem so I was not too optimistic, but it went way better than expected. We were both able to a bunch of the moves although links were tough because we couldn't beat the heat. Even still, I'm really psyched to have popped my cherry on this one and to try it some more when it cools off.

Next we cruised down the road to "Yabo Roof," the Tommy Caldwell test piece that was originally rated v11, but now that it has seen a few repeats (five by my count) has risen to v12. Neither of us expected the temps to have as much of an impact as they did on "Park Life," but sure enough we both got bouted. I've tried this problem on a few occasions scattered here and there over the last few years, often with mixed success, so I knew not to worry too much about how hard it felt that particular evening. Its a good thing too because I went back last night and reached my previous high point of over a year ago (setting up for the big move right to the sloping pinch). Now I'm psyched and ready to lay siege. 

Its kind of funny how this summer climbing thing works. My expectations are less because of the heat. I feel less pressure (self imposed) to send so I don't feel like I'm wasting time returning to a problem time and time again. As a result, I think I'm really increasing my chances for success down the road. Hmmmmm....

Thursday, August 7, 2008

Black Widow

As Promised, I went bouldering last night. It did not go as planned however. First, I discovered that I would not be able to visit the Yabo Roof due to a road closure of sorts. Shitty. Second, as I was hiking out to my second choice destination (in sandals) I stubbed my toe, not once, but twice! The first time I poked a little hole in my big toe, the second time I broke the nail off! Double shitty! Third, upon arriving at the boulder I realized that I had forgotten my chalk bag in Davis so I was forced to walk back to the car and retrieve my smaller chalk bag, which you can see dangling in the photo above. 

The photo is of me on a nice problem called "Black Widow". Apparently there is a direct finish to it but I could not see those holds in the dark. Also, I was informed today that a hold had recently broken off but I had never seen the problem before so I'm not sure if it broke off the original line or the direct variant, "Black Mamba". Anyway, its good fun and worth the short walk out there.

Tuesday, August 5, 2008

Mike and Allison's Wedding

Pics from the wedding, which was at the Botanical Gardens in Fort Bragg. Lovely. Congratulations to the two love birds. They are spending their honeymoon in Croatia, nice.

Second Sunrise

These are from earlier today. I watched one Thursday morning while driving from Yosemite to Davis too. Actually, I've been awake for four sunrises in the last week but I did not actually watch it come up the fist two times. 

I'm really psyched to climb right now but I'm dog tired from waking up at 5am to drive home for work after only 4 hours sleep last night. I will go out tomorrow night. Count on it!