Wednesday, September 26, 2007

Que Sappy Love Song

Is that not the cutest face you've ever seen? I'm talking about the bear cub of course not my goofy mug. This big baby weighed a whopping 63 pounds! That's a ton for a bear less than a year old. I thought about stealing him and trying to teach him to fetch the newspaper and such. I'd have named him Bunny and given him a blue collar. Seriously, this was way cooler than going climbing today. Everyone loves a baby bear, but this one is mine.

By the way, the Yosemite Facelift is off and running again so get out there and pick up some garbage. If you can't make it here go somewhere locally and do your part...Unless you're Alan Moore and locally means the Riverside Quarry. Then, if you're Alan Moore, go find an abandoned 1986 Honda Civic that has been reincarnated as a homeless shelter in its second life and tow it the crag so that it can be with all of it's relatives.

Thursday, September 20, 2007


Its raining, which is nice for the scenery but not for the climbing. Still, I did two new problems today, both on the same boulder as "Merit." "Atom Smasher" in particular is excellent. Pictures will have to wait until some more of my friends with normal jobs or my lazy unemployed friends get up here to pose like Madonna for me and my picture taking machine. Sorry.

Here is a picture of Fire instead. Cool eh?

Monday, September 17, 2007

Birfday Visit

I had some visitors this weekend. Vicki (see above), Peter (seen below on "Battle of the Bulge", which he sent), and my dog Turtle. We went bouldering and had a super time. I have to recommend a problem that I had previously been more or less unaware of. "Hammerhead" in Camp 4 is a super-awesome-mega-classic not to be missed by the highball connoisseur.

You know what the best part about my birthday was, aside from seeing my dog? Treats. I was buried in yummy treats by my friends. Tammy Lynn made cheesecake, Vicki made lemon poppy seed, and my mom sent a poppy seed cake as well.

In a bit of climbing news Tommy Caldwell has made the possible second ascent of Chris Sharma's boulder problem "Thunderbird" in Toulumne Meadows. He also made a rare repeat of Ron Kauk's "Peace". Expect more exciting sends from him and Beth later this fall.

It is cooling down here, which means it is time to get serious and send some hard stuff. If you haven't heard yet there is a ton of climbing to be done in the Valley, don't miss out.

Wednesday, September 12, 2007

Late Nights

"Seat of the Pants"

After several long nights working as late as 6:00am, I have a couple of days off. Yesterday I went bouldering in Camp 4. I met a nice Austrian dude by the name of Deiter? He told me to just call him "D" so I did. He has been travelling the world for a while and is planning on staying in the states for several months. Recently D has been in Peru and and Brazil. His stories of Brazil were quite intriguing and made all the mo' betta by promises of fantastic beachside and inland climbing.

D on "Baby Bear"

"Team America"

Today I took my housemate, Tammy Lynn, on her first mountain climbing adventure. We went to the Glacier Point Apron and climbed "The Grack," a perfect introduction to Yosemite climbing. Here are some pictures of her making her first "summit" and first rappel. Way to go Fucker!

Wednesday, September 5, 2007


I established a new boulder problem recently that required a bit of vision and tenacity. Not to climb, of course, but to clean up. This problem raised the question that every first ascentor faces, "is it worth it?" Of course what makes one climb worth while or not is different for everybody but I have a few specific questions I ask myself before scrubbing. Is the environmental impact of cleaning a particular line going to be egregious? Is the problem going to be worth doing? Is anyone besides myself going to enjoy it? How long will it take to clean? and vice-versa, how long will it take to recover if it is never again to be climbed?

I named this problem in light of this internal conflict, I thought it was worth it.

"Merit" (V3)

Oh, and if you were wondering why you are supposed to clip those carabiners on the dumpsters in Yosemite, or any bear habitat for that matter, this is what happens if you don't.