Tuesday, April 27, 2010

Dr. Topo

I'm up way too late re-watching old Dr. Topo videos. The Doc closed up shop not too long ago but his vids live on in youtube. By today's standards the footage is crap, but holy shit these little flicks had my palms sweating so many times. I think my personal vision for climbing was largely influenced by these gems. I doubt if many people watch them anymore but its worth your time if you've got it.

Night night.

Monday, April 26, 2010

Monday, April 19, 2010


Another competition video from Berkeley Ironworks. I arrived about 2 1/2 hours late due to having attended the Giants home opener, which went into extra innings, so I didn't have high expectations of what I could produce. I think under the circumstances it turned out pretty well.

TRS 4 Berkeley Ironworks from Princess on Vimeo.

Spent this past weekend in Yosemite and despite feeling very lethargic all weekend I managed to have a good time. Randy, Scott, and I sessioned on 'Shadow Warrior' Sunday evening and have a renewed psyche for the problem as a result. Randy showed me the beta he used on the second ascent and it worked brilliantly, plus I don't use a knee pad anymore! I also figured out a way to do the first move finally. Now to the business of putting it all together. Hopefully Scott and I will get back to it fresh next weekend, he just needs one good attempt and it'll be in the bag.

The most exciting news of the weekend is courtesy of Mr. Barraza (duh). He managed to send the steep project at the Ahwahnee boulders on Saturday night, TWICE! On the first send he felt that his foot may have skimmed the pads with his foot. I didn't even realize there was an issue until I rounded the corner to see him top out again! The new line is called 'El Ray'. Good job Paul!

Thursday, April 8, 2010

Home Again

The last few days in Joe's were a bit disappointing. The weather crapped out on us and I was unable to finish off any more of the problems on my tick list. Before the weather arrived I managed to make an ascent of the mega-classic "Trent's Mom". This problem has a reputation as being one of the best problems in the country and after climbing it I can't argue with that.

On the way home I made a brief stop at one of my favorite places to visit, Ibex. Ibex is a trip, and I always want to spend more time there but for some reason never make it happen.

Here a simple video of the problem "Big Gulp". Turn your volume up and see if you can hear the echos on the two attempts when I yell a little, the sound really emphasises how alone you are out there.

Big Gulp from Princess on Vimeo.