Wednesday, April 30, 2008

Pro Day

Today I went bouldering with my friend Beth. Beth has recently discovered a passion for the pebbles and is psched to boulder while her husband, Tommy, works on a project on the Big Stone. I did not intend to document our day of bouldering in the manner that soon follows but I think it turned out nicely. Enjoy.

A day at the boulders with a "Pro Climber" begins with an aborted attempt at warming up. This attempt was so brief in-fact that I was unable to capture any photos of it. Shortly thereafter we found ourselves at my house drinking tea and shooting the shit. An hour or so later we try again. This time we go the Cathedral boulders. The picture above shows Beth and Tommy, not five minutes after we arrived, asleep on their pads. Tommy has a legitimate excuse for napping, he's saving his strength for the next couple of days on his project. Beth's legs were sore from hiking yesterday, but I'm don't know if it earned her a nap.

Beth has never considered herself a "boulderer". Up until recently I don't think she would have gotten much of an argument about that from anyone. In the past six months or so that has started to change. Sure she's still a heck of a lot more accomplished at climbing routes, but she's begun to enjoy working on problems with the same tenacity with which she works on the bigger stuff.  For evidence of that, please see the photo above where she is sending "The King".

Despite her recent improvements, Beth never seems to be very confident about her chances at sending various problems. Even as we were leaving the Cathedral's to go to our goal for the day at the Woodyard she remarked at how she "doesn't climb v9's". "The Tombstone," the problem we were headed to next is of course a v9. Needless to say, her attitude is not the typical boulderer's optimism.

Brushing the holds on "The Tombstone"

By the end of our session on "The Tombstone" Beth had climbed the problem 3 times, topping out without Tommy's assistance on her last attempt. She may have whimpered her way through the tricky (and tall) top out, but she did it none the less.

Once Beth had safely returned to earth from her lofty perch upont the summit of "The Tombstone" boulder we had to hustle down to El Cap Meadow for a photo shoot with Corey Rich. Corey was shooting some profile images of Tommy and Justen Sjong for an upcoming article in some magazine. Beth wasn't planning on being photographed today, but Corey used her as a stand in for some test shots and then ended up taking a few that really capture her new found zest for bouldering. I'd say more but I'm sure those images will see the light of day somewhere and I don't want to spoil it for anyone.

Finally, how does professional rock diva Beth Rodden finish of her day of cranking on the boulders? With an abdominal workout of course!

This photo is not posed

Monday, April 28, 2008


Well, I finally have a fully charged cell phone. My recent forced detachment from my 'celly' has shown me in pathetic detail how dependent I am on it. I'd like to say that I've learned a lesson and that I will now try and break the bonds that bind me to the phone, but I'd be lying because I have no desire to do so.

I didn't climb much this week. I'm feeling very old and brittle these days. Mostly this is because of my leg, which continues to limit what I can do, but also because I'm having some shoulder/bicep pain that's been flaring up like a fart on a match.

I did get to visit with my pooch this weekend. Even though it was only for a couple of nights the visit totally raised my spirits. Nancy brought her down with him. It was good to see him too, but I felt like I only saw him for a couple of hours. I had to work and he got so smashed with the other boys that he was asleep when I got home from work. Oh well, next time right?

Monday, April 21, 2008

Ill Communication

I'm suffering from the effects of living in an information deprivation vortex. Like a moron, I left my cell phone charger in Davis when I overslept on the day I had to check-in here in the ditch. Then, after various generous persons collaborated to have my charger delivered it ceased to function. I now have a house phone, but I don't think the answering machine works. The number is 209 372 4528 if you are looking for a good time, just call! I tried to get the interweb at my house today and that is an entirely new epic novel, one that I'm afraid I've only read the prologue to. Ugh! I'm in the Ahwahnee great hall right now, which is nice, but I'd rather be at home.

On a more cheerful note, I had a lot of guests this weekend. They were all swell except some dude named Drew that I'd never met before nor invite to stay the night, but that's cool I guess. Also, check out Alan's blog for possibly the coolest picture of me EVER! E-mail that shit to me dude, I'm thinking Christmas card.

Good night and god bless. 

Wednesday, April 16, 2008

Back Home...In the Valley!

First new problem of the year, an unnamed problem at the Sentinels.

I came up with a new goal. I want to try and climb a new problem everyday I go bouldering here in the Valley. Doesn't matter how hard or how good, just new.

More later, I'm playing card games with friends and I'm being rude.

Tuesday, April 8, 2008

A Simple Goal Update

So a quick update to this previous post. Today I was doing my finger curls as usual, not really planning on testing myself. In fact, I was just putting weight on without thinking about how much it was, just seeing if looked about right. Then after doing my third set I realized I had just done 185lbs. x 6 reps! 3 more reps than my baseline following my injury. I was psyched so I tried a bit more and was able to do 195lbs. x 4 reps. Nice to see some improvement.

Saturday, April 5, 2008

New Pad...Again

The first ever pad by "Organic" to feature metal buckles. They won't even be available until this summer. 

Friday, April 4, 2008

Just Thinking

This picture has nothing to do with anything, I just like it. From the museum in Price, UT.

When I was nine years old, I was playing tag with a bunch of other kids during recess at school. In the midst of all the action my best friend Ryan and I got into an all out brawl with each other. While it was easily the most heated fight of my life at the time (remember I was only nine) I did not then nor do I now have any idea how it started. At the end of recess we both stormed off to our separate classrooms. Then at the next recess, or lunch break (I really don't remember) a beautiful thing happened. We both went right back to being best friends and have remained so ever since.

As an adult when conflict arises between myself and a friend or loved one I find myself asking the question 'why?' The thing is, often times there is no meaningful answer that could bring me any peace of mind. Sometimes shit just happens. Anyway, as child I didn't need any answers to any pointless questions I just wanted my best friend back. So, we just moved on. 

Sometimes I wish things were still that simple.