tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-48099973602389247502024-03-12T20:24:57.826-07:00Where the Wild Things AreJustinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08525632791476548995noreply@blogger.comBlogger222125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4809997360238924750.post-31192895725869721012012-03-12T23:03:00.003-07:002012-03-14T00:17:55.187-07:00South East Trip<span><span>I've been home now for about a week from a trip to the Southeastern part of our great nation. What was supposed to be Becky's first real vacation since she started her big girl job, turned into a solo dirtbag ordeal. Long story short, Becky is having surgery to replace her ACL on Wednesday as a result of her re-injuring it a week and a half before we were due to leave. To say that she (and I) was disappointed would be a gross understatement.</span></span><div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; "><span><br /></span></div><div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; "><span>In the end I went solo. Having canceled our vacation rental I opted instead to sleep in my rental car at one of the many local Walmarts. The plush living of a Walmart parking lot saved me some money, but I think I may have lost a small part of my soul.</span></div><div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; "><span><br /></span></div><div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; "><span>The climbing, as usual, was stellar. I managed to climb one of the two problems I most coveted, Hot-n-Tot at Horse Pens 40. The line was FA'd by my friend and climbing mentor Randy Puro, which made it a little more significant for me. Unfortunately the only video I have from my time at HP40 is of another line, Stingray. This was the last video I would take with my old iPhone 4 before it decided to end its life prematurely.</span></div><div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; "><span><br /><iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/37353869?portrait=0&color=f7027d" width="398" height="224" frameborder="0" webkitallowfullscreen="" mozallowfullscreen="" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></span></div><div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; "><span><br /></span></div><div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; "><span><br /></span></div><div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; "><span>After a few days in Tallahassee visiting my father I headed north to Chattanooga, TN. My first day at Little Rock City started out well with a retro-flash of the classic Celestial Mechanics (a problem I couldn't touch when I last visited in 2009). After that, I began working on The Law and after a few minutes I had done all of the moves. I decided that, to be safe, I would try and avoid a mono that is often used on the relatively easy moves at the end. I thought that with a heel I could just rock past the mono to some better holds. Unfortunately, when I pulled into the heel I heard, and felt, a rip high in my hamstring and I knew instantly what had happened. I was devastated and nearly booked a flight home that night.</span></div><div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; "><span><br /></span></div><div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; "><span>After talking with Becky on the phone and after walking (limping) around a bit I decided to stick it out, and I'm glad I did. While I was certainly limited in what I could climb on, I was able to climb. I even managed a few relatively hardish ascents with my torn hamstring. Of course I also couldn't even touch a few things that normally wouldn't have presented me with much of a problem at all, but that's the nature of dealing with an injury. </span></div><div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; "><span><br /></span></div><div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; "><span>In the following days I spent most of my time at LRC but I also visited the nearby area of Cumberland, which proved to be a pleasant diversion. Here are a couple of problems from that quaint little area. </span></div><div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; "><span><br /></span></div><div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; "><span><iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/37692262?portrait=0&color=f7027d" width="398" height="224" frameborder="0" webkitallowfullscreen="" mozallowfullscreen="" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></span></div><div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; "><span><br /></span></div><div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; "><span>All in all it was a good trip. I got to hang with a few friend from home on the last few days, which was nice, but I'll be glad to go back when both Becky and I are feeling 100% recovered.</span></div><div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; "><span><br /></span></div><div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; "><span>Finally, here are a few problems from LRC. There probably won't be much media from me in the near future. Not only will I be dealing with Becky's recovery from surgery and my own rehab, but I'm busy as all hell with work and studying for my personal trainer's exam. Hopefully by May I'll be able to do some regular climbing. Until then I'm going to disappear for a while, maybe watch some baseball games...</span></div><div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; "><span><br /></span></div><div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; "><span>Anyway, till next time.</span></div><div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; "><span><br /></span></div><div><span><iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/38107641?portrait=0&color=f7027d" width="398" height="224" frameborder="0" webkitallowfullscreen="" mozallowfullscreen="" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></span></div>Justinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08525632791476548995noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4809997360238924750.post-69343686790644299392012-01-09T12:29:00.000-08:002012-01-09T12:34:13.976-08:00Week in Red RocksI met up with my friend Peter for a quick trip to Red Rocks this past week. The weather was pretty damn warm for the most part so we stuck to the shade. I didn't really focus on taking pictures or video, but I did manage to grab a couple of clips of a few random problems on my iphone. <div><br /></div><div> </div><br /><iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/34801449?portrait=0&color=f7027d" width="398" height="224" frameborder="0" webkitallowfullscreen="" mozallowfullscreen="" allowfullscreen=""></iframe>Justinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08525632791476548995noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4809997360238924750.post-3983539321423511692011-11-30T12:43:00.001-08:002011-11-30T12:43:38.388-08:00Float Like a Butterfly...The Columbia boulder is the ever present campground host of historic Camp 4 in Yosemite Valley. The massive boulder sits and watches over tourists and climbers alike as they mill about the roughshod campground cooking, sleeping, drinking, and climbing. The boulder is graced with United States' most iconic boulder problem, Midnight Lightning, which was established by Ron Kauk in 1978. The last first ascent on this boulder, 'Don't Make Me Kick Your Ass'(DMKYA), was climbed by Greg Loh and named by Chris Sharma about 12 or 13 years ago. This boulder is surely one of the most visited boulders in the world and yet it still holds a few secrets.<div><br /></div><div>Last spring, at the end of a long day, the group was winding down and getting ready for the drive home. As we walked by the Columbia boulder I pointed out a few holds just a few paces to the left of DMKYA and mentioned that I thought a line could be climbed there. After brushing off a dirty sloper Paul, Randy and I began trying what would become 'Float Like a Butterfly, Sting Like a Bee.' </div><div><br /></div><div>Our initial attempts revolved around making a very hard (as yet uncompleted) move up and right to a bad sloper. Jumping off the ground one can catch this hold without too much trouble, but pulling off the ground and doing the move is another challenge all together. After a few days trying the problem Randy got fed up and started to trying a new method involving a dyno back and left to the rail that marks the start of an unnamed V0 jumpstart. This method proved to be very difficult as well, and Randy's motivation began to wane. On the day of the ascent Randy was initially just playing cheerleader, but after watching for a while he couldn't resist. The video below shows what happened next.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/32802676?portrait=0&color=f7027d" width="400" height="225" frameborder="0" webkitallowfullscreen="" mozallowfullscreen="" allowfullscreen=""></iframe>Justinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08525632791476548995noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4809997360238924750.post-78304454351890248752011-10-26T00:05:00.000-07:002011-10-26T00:27:05.288-07:00Fall Update<div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div>At the end of September I took a rejuvenating, but all too brief trip to Colorado to climb and hang out with my old climbing partner Kevin. I didn't take many pictures and I took even less video, but here it is, the only evidence that I made a trip to the Rockies. I'll warn you now, the video isn't very exciting.<br /><br /><iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/30959306?portrait=0&color=f7027d" width="398" height="224" frameborder="0" webkitallowfullscreen="" allowfullscreen=""></iframe><br /><div><br /></div><div>Since my trip to Colorado I've been more or less consumed with taking full advantage of the fall Yosemite season. Over the past several years I've been kept away from my beloved stomping ground for most of the peak climbing seasons for one reason or another, but this fall will be different damnit!</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div>So far I've wrapped up my one project from last fall (and last spring), which I've named 'Ursa Major'. This line is special to me for a lot of reasons and I have to say that topping it out was one of the most satisfying things I've done climbing for a long while. Here's a crappy picture of it.</div><div><br /></div><div><img src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-SiQgcBIbDQo/Tqe08rYw92I/AAAAAAAABR8/KT8j4pfjqcI/s400/IMG_1100.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 298px; height: 400px;" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5667697610600806242" /></div><div style="text-align: center;">Ursa Major</div><div><br /></div><div>I made another first ascent last Friday that I think could end up being pretty popular (if anyone every visited the area). This one is called 'Snickerdoodle' and its next door neighbors with the awesome problem <a href="http://betabase.blogspot.com/2008/11/merganser.html">Merganser</a> and it is probably about the same grade too. Here is the video of that one...</div><div> </div><div><br /><iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/30970158?portrait=0&color=f7027d" width="398" height="224" frameborder="0" webkitallowfullscreen="" allowfullscreen=""></iframe><br /><br /></div><div>Anyhoo, hopefully I'll stay healthy and the weather will cooperate and I'll end up with some more cool shit to share. If not, fuck it, nobody reads this drivel anymore anyway.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /><br /></div>Justinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08525632791476548995noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4809997360238924750.post-72830780703157069662011-08-25T19:47:00.000-07:002011-08-25T20:00:27.479-07:00Gold Bar VideoLyn and Paul just got back from their trip to Leavenworth and Gold Bar, which reminded me that I hadn't finished the second video from our trip back in June. Well, here it is.<div>
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<br /><iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/28177927?color=f7027d" width="580" height="326" frameborder="0"></iframe>Justinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08525632791476548995noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4809997360238924750.post-14643372930789940402011-06-27T00:14:00.000-07:002011-06-27T18:12:57.795-07:00We're BackBecky and I arrived home late last Thursday from our trip and I think we would both like to head back out on the road as soon as possible. Unfortunately, that won't be happening. We're moving into our new place in Berkeley at the end of the week and Becky starts her new J.O.B. on Tuesday so we're pretty much going to be weekend warriors for a while.<div><br /></div><div>As promised, here is the video that covers the first part of our trip in Leavenworth. There will be a second part coming along shortly after that will cover the couple of days we spent in Gold Bar, WA at the end of our trip. More on that later...</div><div><br /></div><div>All in all, Leavenworth was bitchin'. The climbing style was fun, the rock quality varied from 'just okay' to amazing, the 'hang' in the canyons is phenomenal, and even though the Bavarian themed town gets old real quick it offers all the visiting vagabond needs in a nice tight package just a few miles from the climbing. Basically, don't go there and ruin it for everyone else! </div><br /><br /><iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/25681969?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0" width="398" height="224" frameborder="0"></iframe>Justinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08525632791476548995noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4809997360238924750.post-38821415060446932822011-06-17T12:47:00.000-07:002011-06-17T13:12:28.737-07:00Leavenworth ReportBecky and I are currently vacationing in Leavenworth, WA. It is a little post graduation/pre-new job trip for my lady. Becky just graduated from UCSF as a nurse practitioner and begins her new job at Life Long Medical Clinic in Berkeley at the end of this month.<div><br /></div><div>So Far we've been blessed with unseasonably cool temps, which has allowed me to climb a fair amount of cool rock climbs. Becky has been getting herself reacquainted with outdoor rock climbing after a year spent mostly in the classroom, clinics, and occasionally the gym. Some things that have presented a challenge to her include: landings that are not flat, blue and carpeted, holds that are round, and top-outs. There aren't many top-outs in our climbing gyms. Still, she has done a number of very classic and tall problems as she slowly gets more comfortable. I know big things are in her future.</div><div><br /></div><div>Personally, I've been really happy to climb a number of challenging problems of various styles. From the slopey 'Premium Coffee' to the dynamic 'The Shield'. I'm really stoked though to do a problem first ascended by my friend Herm Feissner, called 'The Practitioner'. I briefly worked out the moves on this sweet compression problem in the sun on our first day. I knew right away that I wouldn't be able to climb the whole line in those conditions with sweating fingers and warm to-the-touch rock, but I felt like with some decent conditions it might go quickly. </div><div><br /></div><div>Yesterday, at the end of a long and productive climbing day, I decided to head over to 'The Practitioner' at about 8pm. Becky and I quickly hiked up from the parking lot, threw our two pads down, I practiced the last move twice, and then climbed it from the beginning first try!</div><div><br /></div><div>Anyway, today is a rest day so we might drive up the road to check out the boulders around Gold Bar and Index. We've taken a fair amount of video too, so we should have a video prepared shortly after we get back to the Bay.</div><div><br /></div><div>Booya!!</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div>Justinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08525632791476548995noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4809997360238924750.post-2349629559119986772011-05-04T14:08:00.000-07:002011-05-04T14:18:39.174-07:00New ProblemHere is a new problem from Monday evening. I first scoped this line out in 2007, but I couldn't figure out the top section, I thought it would be pretty hard. I ended up doing an easier variation that bailed out to the left on a good edge around the corner. I called this line 'Lost Shepherd,' it was fun but seemed like a cop-out. I went back on Monday and re-cleaned the top so that I could check out the moves again. Low and behold I was able to figure a sequence out that wasn't even that hard after all, so I sat down and climbed the full line. Yippee!<div><br /></div><div>Here's the video. 'Slope Hand Pope Hand'</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><object width="398" height="264"><param name="allowfullscreen" value="true"><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"><param name="movie" value="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=23279826&server=vimeo.com&show_title=0&show_byline=0&show_portrait=0&color=00adef&fullscreen=1&autoplay=0&loop=0"><embed src="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=23279826&server=vimeo.com&show_title=0&show_byline=0&show_portrait=0&color=00adef&fullscreen=1&autoplay=0&loop=0" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" width="398" height="264"></embed></object>Justinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08525632791476548995noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4809997360238924750.post-16413378563148017352011-04-24T14:10:00.000-07:002011-04-24T14:16:41.206-07:00From the Archives: Part 2<div><br /></div><div>Here are a couple more problems from South Africa. Featuring my friend and boss Lyn Verinsky.</div><div><br /><object width="398" height="224"><param name="allowfullscreen" value="true"><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"><param name="movie" value="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=22810400&server=vimeo.com&show_title=0&show_byline=0&show_portrait=0&color=ff0179&fullscreen=1&autoplay=0&loop=0"><embed src="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=22810400&server=vimeo.com&show_title=0&show_byline=0&show_portrait=0&color=ff0179&fullscreen=1&autoplay=0&loop=0" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" width="398" height="224"></embed></object></div>Justinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08525632791476548995noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4809997360238924750.post-51282432007812485022011-04-19T10:20:00.000-07:002011-04-24T14:18:05.672-07:00From the Archives: Part 1<object width="398" height="224"><param name="allowfullscreen" value="true"><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"><param name="movie" value="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=22596314&server=vimeo.com&show_title=0&show_byline=0&show_portrait=0&color=f50a7f&fullscreen=1&autoplay=0&loop=0"><embed src="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=22596314&server=vimeo.com&show_title=0&show_byline=0&show_portrait=0&color=f50a7f&fullscreen=1&autoplay=0&loop=0" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" width="398" height="224"></embed></object><div><br /></div>Here's some video of my friend Collin Horvat that was "lost" until recently. Becky originally shot this over the summer of 2009 while we were climbing at Rocklands. <div><br /></div><div>More of these to come.</div>Justinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08525632791476548995noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4809997360238924750.post-21336141231965200202011-03-20T18:04:00.000-07:002011-03-20T21:55:55.439-07:00Home Again<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9SQ0nBPoxPs/TYbRyG8hRgI/AAAAAAAABQE/rdS6Hrgrd1I/s1600/IMG_0717.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 170px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9SQ0nBPoxPs/TYbRyG8hRgI/AAAAAAAABQE/rdS6Hrgrd1I/s400/IMG_0717.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5586383046587794946" /></a><div style="text-align: center;">The view of Larchant from a hilltop</div><div>
<br /></div><div>I'm back in California now, and aside from visiting some loved ones I haven't done much today. The last week in France was great albeit a bit frustrating on several levels. Of course my shoulder bothered me and there were times when watching everyone climb on things I longed to try was a bit too much to handle. Also, I somehow managed to destroy a bathroom counter top by simply leaning on it and we ended up getting fleeced by the gite owner (who more than covered his expenses with his replacement fee). Of course events in Japan and Libya remind me that these concerns are relatively trivial, although still damn frustrating. I did manage to do a bit of climbing before leaving. Mostly slabs and easy stuff, but it all felt great considering I wasn't sure if I'd be able to climb at all just a week ago.</div><div>
<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wlvGuVxKP68/TYa-l5HLiOI/AAAAAAAABP8/l4zrWSam1bI/s1600/IMG_0715.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 180px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wlvGuVxKP68/TYa-l5HLiOI/AAAAAAAABP8/l4zrWSam1bI/s320/IMG_0715.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5586361945995053282" /></a><div style="text-align: center;">Turtle?</div><div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dLK5CTw42jA/TYa-lcA9PyI/AAAAAAAABP0/pivSPbyhFaM/s1600/IMG_0733.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 239px; height: 320px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dLK5CTw42jA/TYa-lcA9PyI/AAAAAAAABP0/pivSPbyhFaM/s320/IMG_0733.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5586361938184322850" /></a><div style="text-align: center;">Scott on 'Irreversible' </div><div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-v0XAJbqCHv0/TYa-lNVR8yI/AAAAAAAABPs/MC3s3S1LAso/s1600/IMG_0746.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 239px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-v0XAJbqCHv0/TYa-lNVR8yI/AAAAAAAABPs/MC3s3S1LAso/s320/IMG_0746.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5586361934243033890" /></a><div style="text-align: center;">Social hour in Bas Cuvier</div><div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">A few of us wandered into Paris last week as well. Checked out a terrific art museum, had a nice lunch, visited the Eiffel Tower, and walked around a bunch, it was a nice break and I'd like to go back. I think next time I may arrange for a few nights stay in the city and explore a little bit more.</div><div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jW8vmsRyR3w/TYazdb8FnoI/AAAAAAAABPk/m-AoY4WT-Yk/s1600/IMG_0774.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jW8vmsRyR3w/TYazdb8FnoI/AAAAAAAABPk/m-AoY4WT-Yk/s200/IMG_0774.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5586349706097041026" /></a><div style="text-align: center;">Van Gogh at <span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 13px; "><span class="Apple-style-span">Musée <em style="font-style: normal; ">d'Orsay</em></span></span></div><meta charset="utf-8"><div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-A7aAmOLZSqk/TYazcoZhf9I/AAAAAAAABPc/YZHMMItRT-o/s1600/IMG_0763.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 149px; height: 200px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-A7aAmOLZSqk/TYazcoZhf9I/AAAAAAAABPc/YZHMMItRT-o/s200/IMG_0763.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5586349692261859282" /></a><div style="text-align: center;">Louvre</div></div><div>
<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RZWmWC9_qeQ/TYazcDDJZZI/AAAAAAAABPU/x-sS0tNRmG8/s1600/IMG_0792.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 149px; height: 200px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RZWmWC9_qeQ/TYazcDDJZZI/AAAAAAAABPU/x-sS0tNRmG8/s200/IMG_0792.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5586349682235893138" /></a><div style="text-align: center;">Eiffel</div><div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">The final few days saw the arrival of a few more friends in the forest. Ethan and Matt were supposed to be in Switzerland but the weather was crap so they joined us in Fontainebleau. Paul had already left font for the Swiss gneiss but ended up returning for the same reason.</div><div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-aH70zSyoSNY/TYazb7ulnjI/AAAAAAAABPM/mprTapj6R6E/s1600/IMG_0816.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-aH70zSyoSNY/TYazb7ulnjI/AAAAAAAABPM/mprTapj6R6E/s200/IMG_0816.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5586349680270614066" /></a><div style="text-align: center;">Paul on 'Big Dragon'</div><div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZFUfjnm4DVo/TYazbaqHGaI/AAAAAAAABPE/tgGRMNAiUCQ/s1600/IMG_0822.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 149px; height: 200px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZFUfjnm4DVo/TYazbaqHGaI/AAAAAAAABPE/tgGRMNAiUCQ/s200/IMG_0822.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5586349671393466786" /></a><div style="text-align: center;">Matt enjoying St. Patrick's day</div></div><div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">I'm a bit wiped right now and don't have a lot of energy for reflection at the moment, but perhaps I'll post a wrap up or something in the near future. Maybe when I finish my little video...</div><div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>Justinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08525632791476548995noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4809997360238924750.post-56372632638235461042011-03-11T01:24:00.001-08:002011-03-11T01:35:17.322-08:00One More Week<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-P-dgUwyVb78/TXnsRFB9-xI/AAAAAAAABO8/Cqs4I-nxjZA/s1600/IMG_0623.JPG"><span class="Apple-style-span"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 239px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-P-dgUwyVb78/TXnsRFB9-xI/AAAAAAAABO8/Cqs4I-nxjZA/s320/IMG_0623.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5582752991254805266" /></span></a><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span">There is about a week left in my Font trip and I may have climbed my last boulder problem.</span></div> <p class="p2" style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span">Yesterday began with a lot of optimism. I had just rested for two agonizing days with the hope that my skin condition would improve to the point of allowing me to climb some difficult boulders. Our warm up at Elephant went well enough, the weather even seemed a little better than the forecast predicted. We then headed over to Rocher Greau so that Nora could try Conquistador and I might try Megalithe or possibly Tiger et Dragon. Nora's efforts on Conquistador were inspiring as she quickly made progress and reached her new high point three or four times. My efforts on Megalithe left me with two freshly split finger tips and no ascent to ease the pain.<meta equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=UTF-8"></span></p><p class="p2"><img src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xFO5_xi_WjU/TXnrxd0u4nI/AAAAAAAABO0/DuhfkKkMrzY/s320/IMG_0684.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 239px;" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5582752448154362482" /></p> <p class="p1" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span">Elephant</span></p><p class="p1"><span class="Apple-style-span">Next we moved over to Roche aux Oiseaux were things brightened up a bit for me. There is an old classic problem at Oiseaux that was once featured in the French bouldering film Bleau, the problem is called Le Mandarin and is notable for it's unique movement and interesting holds. For once this trip, despite the tape on my fingertips, I managed to do a somewhat difficult problem relatively quickly. I felt relieved, in a way, and rejuvenated. I wanted to move on to the next objective, Magneton. Magneton was the first hard problem I tried on the trip and I wanted a second go in better conditions. Ingar offered to spot so we headed over for quick session in the last light of the day.</span></p> <p class="p2" style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span">Initially I could tell the problem felt much better in dry conditions and so after briefly warming up on a few moves I started trying from the beginning. After two attempts falling at the crux I knew I'd have to dig down a little harder to hang on to the terrible left hand sloper, the tape on my left index finger was definitely hindering my ability to hang onto the crux hold. On my last attempt I stuck the crux but my foot popped off it's foothold and I shock loaded my shoulder. I managed to hang on for another move fell off right after. Right away I knew something was wrong as my rotator cuff started to seize up and I started feeling some pain as I dug around in my climbing bag.<meta equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=UTF-8"></span></p> <p class="p2"><span class="Apple-style-span">After talking with the on-call doctors of the trip, Noah and Siemay, I'm pretty sure I have torn or sprained one of my rotator cuff muscles and I probably have a small labarum tear as well. This effectively ends climbing for me on this trip and maybe for some time after. As Noah said, there is a chance it all feel much better by next week and I may be able to do a few easy classics or some slabs, but this is not all that comforting to hear.</span></p> <p class="p2" style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span">If I were traveling alone I'd probably leave Font and just go see some more of France but that not really an option, nor financially responsible for me to do. So that's it, it was a good trip and I'm sure I'll still enjoy myself but I'd be lying if I said I'm not a bit devastated by this injury, especially following so closely on the heels of my finger injury.<meta equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=UTF-8"></span></p> <p class="p2"><span class="Apple-style-span">At least Nora and Ingar made me dinner last night. It was delicious!</span></p><img src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zvPNzKRocRA/TXnq_Ee5axI/AAAAAAAABOs/fbkrPMVfQas/s200/IMG_0704.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 150px;" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5582751582358432530" />Justinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08525632791476548995noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4809997360238924750.post-29364216877197309992011-03-04T01:51:00.000-08:002011-03-04T01:55:19.898-08:00Lovely<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vH4AZe1RH2o/TXC2O399YhI/AAAAAAAABOc/O1AaQN09ugA/s1600/IMG_0563.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 239px; height: 320px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vH4AZe1RH2o/TXC2O399YhI/AAAAAAAABOc/O1AaQN09ugA/s320/IMG_0563.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5580160304970293778" /></a><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" >the road to P'tit Paradis</span></div><div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><meta equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8"> <meta equiv="Content-Style-Type" content="text/css"> <title></title> <meta name="Generator" content="Cocoa HTML Writer"> <meta name="CocoaVersion" content="949.54"> <style type="text/css"> p.p1 {margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; font: 12.0px Helvetica} p.p2 {margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; font: 12.0px Helvetica; min-height: 14.0px} </style> <p class="p1" style="text-align: left;">I<span class="Apple-style-span">nspired. That about sums it up right now.</span></p> <p class="p2" style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span">
<br /></span></p> <p class="p1" style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span">The past few days have been simply blissful. I've climbed in the company of good friends, I've climbed alone, I've climbed amazing classics, I've climbed little known obscurities, and I've also just sat around and let my friends' climbing inspire me. </span></p> <p class="p2" style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span">
<br /></span></p> <p class="p1" style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span">The weather here has officially improved as well! They've been the kind of cool crisp breezy conditions climbers dream of.</span></p> <p class="p2" style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span">
<br /></span></p> <p class="p1" style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span">There is really nothing more to say....</span></p> <p class="p2" style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span">
<br /></span></p> <p class="p2" style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span">
<br /></span></p> <p class="p2" style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span">
<br /></span></p> <p class="p1" style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span">....oh, I did loose my American Express somehow over that few days. I guess that little hiccup just goes to prove that I'm not dreaming and all this goodness is real.</span></p></div>Justinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08525632791476548995noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4809997360238924750.post-91919370251451163102011-02-28T14:18:00.000-08:002011-02-28T14:46:25.439-08:00Topping Out<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fq7DXXutmcU/TWwhlBfq1EI/AAAAAAAABOQ/4e--cJWKMi8/s1600/IMG_0525.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 162px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fq7DXXutmcU/TWwhlBfq1EI/AAAAAAAABOQ/4e--cJWKMi8/s400/IMG_0525.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5578870958345344066" /></a><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" >Kevin on de la Terra a la Lune</span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" >
<br /></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"> <meta equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8"> <meta equiv="Content-Style-Type" content="text/css"> <title></title> <meta name="Generator" content="Cocoa HTML Writer"> <meta name="CocoaVersion" content="949.54"> <style type="text/css"> p.p1 {margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; font: 12.0px Helvetica} p.p2 {margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; font: 12.0px Helvetica; min-height: 14.0px} </style> <p class="p1" style="text-align: left; "><span class="Apple-style-span" >The beginning of week two...</span></p> <p class="p2" style="text-align: left; "><span class="Apple-style-span">
<br /></span></p> <p class="p1" style="text-align: left; "><span class="Apple-style-span">Our routine is becoming much more comfortable. Everyone seems to be sleeping well, and everyone has become accustomed to imperfect weather. We have also continued the trend of visiting new areas just about every day. At 95.2 several of us enjoyed ascents of the classic <a href="http://bleau.info/95.2/29.html">l'Ange Naif</a> utilizing various methods, while others played on <a href="http://bleau.info/95.2/5.html">Retour aux Sources</a>. Gorge aux Chats provided the perfect location to wrap up one afternoon. There, several people tried the beautiful face of Rubis sur l'Ongle, many of our crew scampered around on named and unnamed moderates, all the while Ingar, Randy and I tried the powerful compression problem Magneton.</span></p><ul><li><span class="Apple-style-span"><img src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8ZA9TP5wkm0/TWwg2XLiZ6I/AAAAAAAABOA/zCL_AMM66xs/s320/IMG_0469.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 239px;" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5578870156712634274" /></span></li></ul><p></p> <p class="p1" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span">Scott on l'Ange Naif</span></p><p class="p1" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span">
<br /></span></p><p class="p1" style="text-align: left; "><span class="Apple-style-span"><meta equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=UTF-8"><img src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xG0StEta8vs/TWwg2i9orbI/AAAAAAAABOI/N3Jj2mIa9qo/s320/IMG_0474.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 239px; height: 320px;" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5578870159875550642" /></span></p><p class="p1" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span">Nora on Retour aux Sources</span></p><meta charset="utf-8"><p class="p1" style="text-align: left; "><span class="Apple-style-span">
<br /></span></p><p class="p1" style="text-align: left; "><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span">Yesterday we all started out at a leisurely pace in a quiet sector called Canche aux Merciers. There are two standout characteristics of this place, in my opinion, that make this sector one worth visiting. First, the outstanding circuits provide something for everyone. For the uninitiated, these circuits are a series of numbered climbs that are intended to be climbed in ascending order beginning with the first. These circuits are color coded and these colors refer to their relative difficulty. Orange, I believe, is the easy mountaineers circuit for example. Canche aux Merciers has an orange, red, and blue circuit of high quality. The second stand-out attraction is a very unique tunnel right through the heart of one of the boulders. Long story short, Noah, Monica and I tried to make it through but ultimately I was the only one to fit through the tight squeeze. I'd give it a 7C+ tunneling grade. Hopefully Randy will provide some photos or video so that it can be fully appreciated because words si</span><span class="Apple-style-span">mply will not do it justice.</span></span></p> <p class="p2" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><meta equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=UTF-8">
<br /></span></p> <p class="p1" style="text-align: left; "><span class="Apple-style-span">Yesterday afternoon we headed back to Cuvier Rempart. The highlight of my session there was managing to maneuver my way up the classic top-out problem <a href="http://bleau.info/rempart/331.html">Baisers Voles</a>. The top out problem is something to behold. Whereas when a climber describes a mantle problem, pocket problem, sloper problem, roof climb, or slab it is fairly easy for most experience climbers to understand or even imagine the type of climbing involved on said climb. I would venture to guess that most climbers would not be able to fully grasp the nuances and unique qualities that define 'top-out' problems unless those climbers had every visited Fontainebleau. Yes, this type of problem occurs elsewhere but with nowhere near the regularity or quality of here in Font. Now that I'm aware of this type, I know that is a style I would love to master because at the moment it feels soooo desperate!</span></p> <p class="p2" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><meta equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=UTF-8"><meta equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=UTF-8">
<br /></span></p> <p class="p1" style="text-align: left; "><span class="Apple-style-span">Today was a rest day for myself, but Monica, Scott, and Randy all headed out to the rocks. I tagged along and can report the Monica is progressing on her project at Apremont, Scott made a fast ascent of <a href="http://bleau.info/houx/546.html">de la Terre a la Lune</a> at Gorge du Houx, and Randy made some progress on his project <a href="http://bleau.info/houx/11171.html">Tajine</a>, also at Gorge du Houx. At the end of the day Randy joined the local boys Gregoire, Kevin, and Moon whilst they through themselves at the stunning highball <a href="http://bleau.info/houx/9525.html">Londinium</a>. It was difficult to keep my shoes in my pack today I can tell you that, but I'm optimistic that the rest will pay off for me tomorrow.</span></p><meta equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=UTF-8"><p class="p2" style="text-align: left; "><span class="Apple-style-span">
<br /></span></p> <p class="p1" style="text-align: left; "><span class="Apple-style-span">Until the next report,</span></p> <p class="p2" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><meta equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=UTF-8">
<br /></span></p> <p class="p1" style="text-align: left; "><span class="Apple-style-span">A revoir!</span></p></div><meta equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=UTF-8"><div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>Justinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08525632791476548995noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4809997360238924750.post-75885547067211380562011-02-24T01:45:00.000-08:002011-02-24T10:06:29.414-08:00Quick Update<meta equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=UTF-8"><meta equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=UTF-8"><img src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zgZrcSJkq-w/TWYphY4fN2I/AAAAAAAABNg/JQ4SJqIWBPc/s400/IMG_0450.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 299px; height: 400px;" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5577190842136737634" /><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" >Markus of Austria on "Big Jim"</span></div><p class="p1">Sitting here in the gite waiting for rocks to dry. Scott and I have already been out once to get pastries and we may go again soon.</p> <p class="p2" style="text-align: left;">The last two days have been a mix of climbing and resting. We went into the town of Fontainebleau proper and had a walk around the Chateau's gardens. Afterward we headed over to Franchard Cuisinaire where the rest of the team was climbing. My head spun at all the rock.<meta equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=UTF-8"></p><meta equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=UTF-8"><meta equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=UTF-8"><meta equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=UTF-8"><meta equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=UTF-8"><meta equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=UTF-8"><meta equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=UTF-8"><img src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YuXnpjONUwI/TWYsSMERWUI/AAAAAAAABNo/TurNZJXWa7U/s200/IMG_0431.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 149px; height: 200px;" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5577193879533345090" /><div style="text-align: center;">S<span class="Apple-style-span" >cott happy with baked goods.</span></div><div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div><div><img src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aGAozwa6XmA/TWYs4LktxtI/AAAAAAAABNw/odBfsrYFbRY/s200/IMG_0433.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 149px; height: 200px;" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5577194532236019410" /><p class="p2" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" >Fontain at the chateau</span></p> <p class="p1">Yesterday we had a nice afternoon at Petite Bois. I managed a few classics and everyone seemed to enjoy the nice conditions before the rain came at 4:30.</p> <p class="p2" style="text-align: left;">More to come.<meta equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=UTF-8"></p><p class="p2" style="text-align: left;">
<br /></p><p class="p2" style="text-align: center;">Edit: Evening update. Today became a rest day. Below is a picture of the highlight of my day.</p><img src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7vGKzFWGXmw/TWaciqH4U5I/AAAAAAAABN4/N2RhSpoxLdU/s200/IMG_0464.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 150px;" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5577317307781763986" /><div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div></div>Justinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08525632791476548995noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4809997360238924750.post-32634699915277041532011-02-21T00:26:00.000-08:002011-02-24T01:43:09.564-08:00Welcome to Fontainebleau<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div><meta equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=UTF-8"><meta equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=UTF-8"><meta equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=UTF-8"><img src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QdqEgEgPP4s/TWIieTK7TZI/AAAAAAAABNI/m-zoqEhkUKc/s400/IMG_0398.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 298px; height: 400px;" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5576057192575618450" /><div style="text-align: center;">I'm here and I'm happy</div> <p class="p2">I awoke on Friday morning at 6:40AM after Becky's alarm went off. I of course did not wake up to my own alarm, which I set for 6:30....PM We'll call that the first bullet dodged.</p><meta equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=UTF-8"><p class="p2">Our flight was delayed about 40 minutes because of poor visibility, our layover in Charlotte was only an hour...they held our flight because 22 other passengers were trying to make the same connection.</p> <p class="p2">As we were boarding in San Francisco Monica noticed Scott's crash pad on the tarmac after they had finished loading all of the other luggage...I finally convinced a US Airways employee that the bag DID indeed belong to us and we would like it on the plane.</p> <p class="p2">Aside from these near misses our travel was pretty seamless. Scott, Monica and I arrived in Paris to grey skies and a bit of rain about 30 minutes ahead of schedule at 9:45am Saturday morning. We quickly gathered our bags and claimed our rental car (a brand new Picasso) and headed south to Larchant. Our quaint little gite is just a stones throw away from the beautiful ruins of the town's Basilica and it will be a perfect little home form our month long stay. After dropping off our belongings we wasted no time walking around the corner to the nearest boulangerie where we indulged our starved stomachs in pan au chocolate and a fresh bagette.</p> <meta equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=UTF-8"><div><meta equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=UTF-8"><meta equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=UTF-8"><meta equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=UTF-8"><img src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jzxDpSlZKtg/TWIocyy2jqI/AAAAAAAABNQ/DfUwsZz3D9I/s200/IMG_0389.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 149px; height: 200px;" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5576063763774607010" /><div style="text-align: center;">Basilique</div></div><meta equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=UTF-8"><p class="p2">We would have loved to climb this day but the weather forced us to remain patient. We took the opportunity to walk around a couple of the local boulders though, and I wasn't disappointed. At Petit Bois we had a look at Big Jim, Big Dragon, L'Oeuf and La Baleine among a very nice circuit of moderates. All of these looked incredible. Just down the road from there is a small mound called Rocher Greau. Rocher Greau is perhaps a little less dense with</p><meta equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=UTF-8"><p class="p2">problems but it holds a few stunning gems. Both Megalithe and Tigre et Dragon were high on my "to do" list before I'd arrived and seeing them in person only reinforced that desire. Actually, upon viewing Tigre et Dragon I sorta lost my shit, here is one of the problems I'd daydreamed about for the better part of about two years and it looked even better than I'd imagined. This boulder which I'd used as a motivational tool to get me through countless training sessions and even more monotonous days behind the desk and here is sits in front of me begging to be climbed...except it was wet. Oh well, after not sleeping for 26 hours I probably wouldn't have faired too well anyway.</p><meta equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=UTF-8"><div><meta equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=UTF-8"><img src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-limldDn2qTw/TWIolxXONxI/AAAAAAAABNY/jvneFHeVlv0/s200/IMG_0395.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 149px; height: 200px;" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5576063918009104146" /></div><p class="p2" style="text-align: center;">Tiger et Dragon</p><p class="p2">On Sunday I awoke at about 5am with bright eyes and hungry for boulders. I knew I had to be patient though because the sky was still overcast and it had rained the day before. Eventually though, we ventured out to Apremont where Scott thought we'd have a good chance at finding dry rock. Upon our arrival I doubted our chances. Every boulder felt damp if not soaked but we kept walking and eventually found some a small cluster of less wet boulders. At first I just planned on climbing a beautiful low angle slab 'just to get it out of my system' but that led to another slab, which led to a little overhang, which soon enough led me into a pretty decent warm up. At this time we were joined for the first time by Beth and Randy and shortly after by Gregoire and Kevin, two locals that Randy has know for many years. Lastly we were joined by a very slight breeze which started to blow though making more climbs increasingly possible.</p> <p class="p2">By the end of the afternoon we'd all managed to get our fix. The highlights included several ascents of Motus Vivaldi and the classic Onde de Choc as well as both Beth and Monica topping out a beautiful highball called Anglomaniaque.</p> <p class="p2">Nightfall could not subdue my enthusiasm and so I followed Randy out to the Cul de Chien for a headlamp session on the amazing roof of that area. I was able to do all of the moves on the classic Eclipse but was ultimately thwarted by fatigue and wet holds, Randy however was able to hang on for a quick repeat despite the dampness.</p> <p class="p2">After a less than ideal night of sleep (I woke up at 3AM) I'm now eager anticipating today's action. I think we may go to Cuvier but really it doesn't matter. The feeling in the forest is magical, the vibe around the gite peaceful, and I am extremely content.</p>Justinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08525632791476548995noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4809997360238924750.post-39198975195053870372011-02-11T01:29:00.000-08:002011-02-11T01:50:43.569-08:00Just a Week AwayBetween my last post and now not much has happened. I've festered, I've moaned, I've worked and I've climbed a little in the gym. Outdoor rock climbing has been extremely infrequent. One brief trip to Mammoth/<a href="http://vimeo.com/19329009">Bishop</a> for Becky's family reunion with a little climbing mixed in and a day at <a href="http://vimeo.com/19085379">Castle Rock</a>, that's it.<div><br /></div><div>The light at the end of this dark tunnel is that a week from now I'll be on a plane to Paris where I'll spend a month in the mythical forest of Fontainebleau. Eat. Sleep. Climb. That's it for a month, I couldn't be more excited.</div><div><br /></div><div>My finger, and my grip strength, are not yet 100% but both have significantly improved over the last 3 months. I've been able to train a bit, albeit not to the extent that I'd like, but I'm optimistic that I'll be able to grapple my way to the top of a few boulders.</div><div><br /></div><div>Honestly though I'm really excited to just forget about life for a while, and just do what I love. I'm going to try and blog regularly while I'm there for those of you that care. I know that when I'm unable to get out I really appreciate reading about other like-minded individuals that are. So I'll do my best to contribute to the psyche-building world of climbing blogs and try to steer away from the self-indulgent sprayfests that many blogs devolve into. </div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div>Justinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08525632791476548995noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4809997360238924750.post-39761837595299665192011-01-01T15:32:00.000-08:002011-01-01T15:55:54.432-08:00Man DateEarly in December my friend, and coworker, Ryan Moon decided it was time we climbed together so he scheduled us a "Man Date" going so far as to write it into the staff calendar at Ironworks. Here is the video from our "date" at the boulders of Colombia College in Sonora, CA.<br /><br /><iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/18352399?portrait=0&color=f000cc" width="400" height="225" frameborder="0"></iframe><p><a href="http://vimeo.com/18352399">Man Date</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user1511024">Princess </a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.</p>Justinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08525632791476548995noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4809997360238924750.post-76119268614682097942010-11-19T11:39:00.000-08:002010-11-19T13:38:21.824-08:00Castle Rock State Park<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_u_neJuBhPZI/TObstgJSsjI/AAAAAAAABMQ/V8_vHGXBrOw/s1600/IMG_0197.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 298px; height: 400px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_u_neJuBhPZI/TObstgJSsjI/AAAAAAAABMQ/V8_vHGXBrOw/s400/IMG_0197.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5541376657993151026" /></a><div style="text-align: center;">Color that will soon be missing from the Valley</div><div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>Yesterday I made an unusual decision. I passed on an opportunity to go to Yosemite and opted for nearby Castle Rock instead!? Crazy, I know. There was some reasoning behind this madness though, first of all I'm going to Fontainebleau in the middle of February and Castle is just about the best simulation of Font sandstone around (so I'm told) so this was first of many acclimation trips I plan on making to the area. Second, I'm still nursing my finger injury though it is finally improving. Castle has a bunch of nice friendly slopers and I figured it would be good therapy for my weak link. Thirdly, there was(is) an ass-ton of weather on the horizon that would have made the chances of climbing two days in the Valley less than optimal to warrant the drive.<div style="text-align: center;"><meta equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=UTF-8">
<br /></div><div>Turns out I feel like I made a fine choice. My good buddy Skippy and I had a great day with prime conditions at Castle yesterday. I managed to do three new-to-me problems that were all high quality, the "Nature Nazi Arete", "Groundation", and "Egghead Arete". </div><div>
<br /></div><div>Here a video of Skippy on "Groundation". I think I'm going to teach a clinic on iphone videos soon because I'm basically a pro.</div><meta equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=UTF-8"><div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div><iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/17009306?portrait=0&color=f000cc" width="400" height="225" frameborder="0"></iframe><a href="http://vimeo.com/17009306">Groundation</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user1511024">Princess </a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.<p>There has been some notable activity going on in the Valley worth mentioning. Currently <a href="http://tommyandbecca.blogspot.com/">Tommy</a> and <a href="http://twitter.com/kjorgeson">Kevin</a> are on their first push effort to climb the <a href="http://vimeo.com/10183589">Dawn Wall project</a>. Unfortunately this weather pattern doesn't bode well for them. I hope they succeed but their safety is more important to me.</p><meta equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=UTF-8"><p>Elsewhere in the Valley, my friend Thomasina Pidgeon made the first female ascent of "Drive On" yesterday. This is proud tick indeed and one I'd like to climb as well, if I can ever crimp again...</p><p>About a week ago Randy and I climbed a couple of new problems. The first was the old project on the King Boulder at the Cathedrals. This problem is just right of "The Stamp" and just left of "So Good". The problem is tall, beautiful, climbs up perfect rock, and has some really unique moves. The name of this soon to be classic is "Old Dog, New Tricks". The second problem we did is a line I scoped out and cleaned last spring but was unable to unlock. Randy figured out the beta for the distinct crux on this one and I followed up shortly thereafter. Here's a picture of the line that makes it look a lot shorter than it is.</p><p> </p><p><meta equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=UTF-8"><img src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_u_neJuBhPZI/TObrvWjC-4I/AAAAAAAABMI/FoqyxhD1exo/s320/IMG_0201.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 238px; height: 320px;" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5541375590264929154" /></p><p style="text-align: center;"><meta equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=UTF-8">We dubbed this line "Iwo Jima"</p>Justinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08525632791476548995noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4809997360238924750.post-89935116853004264932010-10-28T10:59:00.000-07:002010-12-03T11:37:32.756-08:00State of AffairsThe short version of the story goes like this:<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;">Working more climbing less<br />Injured finger equals regress<br /><br />Often wanting to get out of this place<br />At least I have the Giants World Series chase<br /><br /><div style="text-align: left;">Ta-da! I'm a poet. That took me all of a minute to think up and I bet you couldn't tell. The longer version of the story includes my computer being in the shop with a potentially deadly (to the computer) and expensive problem. There is also the mysterious emergence of a finger injury whose origins and exact ramifications remain unknown. All in all I've been a bit down in the dumps lately, and for that I'm sorry to those of you I may have inadvertently brought down with me (especially Becky, she has enough on her plate). I'm trying to look at the long term picture not just the next two months, but that has been and continues to be a major adjustment for me.<br /><br />On the Brighter side...The Giants are in the World Series and have already taken a 1-0 series lead. I'm incredibly stoked and grateful for the opportunity to be at the game tonight with my family. The last time I was at a World Series game with my Dad and my sister it was 1989 and it didn't go so well for the <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AFwJR04qBys&feature=related">City</a> or the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1989_World_Series">Giants</a>.<br /><br />On the climbing front, though I've basically scrapped any attempt at training, I've been able to find and clean an amazing project in Yosemite that doesn't seem to require much out of my middle finger. The crux is actually a one-legged squat off of a dicey heel hook. Hopefully the weather will cooperate and I'll be able to finish it off soon.<br /><br />So that is the state of affairs in my world.<br /><br />Oh, this looks cool too.<br /><br /><br /><iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/16456058?portrait=0&color=f000cc" width="400" height="225" frameborder="0"></iframe><p><a href="http://vimeo.com/16456058">Smitten Teaser</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user4486440">Smitten the movie</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p><br /></div></div>Justinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08525632791476548995noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4809997360238924750.post-26025399968571617792010-09-17T00:14:00.000-07:002010-09-29T01:16:33.278-07:0030<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_u_neJuBhPZI/TJMXbEyQqdI/AAAAAAAABMA/0Wzm_c5sIBU/s1600/IMG_0113.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 299px; height: 400px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_u_neJuBhPZI/TJMXbEyQqdI/AAAAAAAABMA/0Wzm_c5sIBU/s400/IMG_0113.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5517779722367445458" /></a><div style="text-align: center;">"The Shampoo Squeeze"</div><div><br /></div>If you know me well at all, you know that I hate my birthday. I'm not so fond of the whole aging thing. I'm particularly concerned with how aging will negatively affect my climbing.<div><br /></div><div>Bearing this in mind I thought maybe if I went bouldering with a bunch of old dudes I'd feel better about myself. It sort of worked until Noah pointed out the inverse relationship between the respective ages of the climbers present and their climbing abilities. Bugger, this only reaffirmed my fears. </div><div><br /></div><div>Despite the looming cloud of misery I dragged around all day I managed to have a good time and climb a few problems. I even snagged a first ascent! The legendary Dave <a href="http://www.standardfilms.com/homep2.html">Hatchett</a> was kind enough to show me around Sugar Pine 3, where he has put in a ton of work cleaning and climbing new lines. At the end of the day he took us over to one he'd tried the previous year but never finished, and after a few attempts I got to the top. Dave and Noah both followed suit soon after. I called the problem the "The Shampoo Squeeze" (there a story behind it) and it was the last thing I climbed in my twenties.</div><div><br /></div><div>Two other climbing highlights included Charlie Barrett's "Space Balls" and Joel Zerr's "Freeloader".</div><br /><br /><iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/15048021?portrait=0&color=f000cc" width="400" height="225" frameborder="0"></iframe><p><a href="http://vimeo.com/15048021">Freeloader</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user1511024">Princess </a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.</p>Justinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08525632791476548995noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4809997360238924750.post-39649903803814725052010-08-03T02:30:00.001-07:002010-08-03T02:32:23.375-07:00SerpentineHere's another iphone video, this time from Becky. We spent a week in Mammoth early last month. I only climbed two days though, the bugs sucked the motivation right out of me.<br /><br /><br /><object height="225" width="400"><param name="allowfullscreen" value="true"><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"><param name="movie" value="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=13805305&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=f000cc&fullscreen=1"><embed src="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=13805305&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=f000cc&fullscreen=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" height="225" width="400"></embed></object><p><a href="http://vimeo.com/13805305">Way Lake 2010</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user1908174">Becky Trafecanty</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.</p>Justinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08525632791476548995noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4809997360238924750.post-36668254672579418682010-07-25T19:39:00.000-07:002010-07-25T19:42:46.759-07:00Dog DaysIt is officially summer and I'm not so psyched on the weather, the driving, or pretty much anything other than chilling out. Actually, I'm pretty happy with my new iphone! Check out the video I shot with it. Pretty damn good quality for fucking phone!<br /><br /><object height="225" width="400"><param name="allowfullscreen" value="true"><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"><param name="movie" value="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=13633398&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=f000cc&fullscreen=1"><embed src="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=13633398&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=f000cc&fullscreen=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" height="225" width="400"></embed></object><p><a href="http://vimeo.com/13633398">Mosquito Season</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user1511024">Princess </a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.</p>Justinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08525632791476548995noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4809997360238924750.post-63000093405791265972010-07-11T14:46:00.000-07:002010-07-11T14:53:17.164-07:00Victory!!!<div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_u_neJuBhPZI/TDo8wqgzbqI/AAAAAAAABLw/M_ZrIUCbeIY/s1600/1278883030.gif"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 220px; height: 291px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_u_neJuBhPZI/TDo8wqgzbqI/AAAAAAAABLw/M_ZrIUCbeIY/s400/1278883030.gif" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5492769502275006114" border="0" /></a><a href="http://soccernet.espn.go.com/report?id=264123&cc=5901&ver=us">INIESTA!!</a><br /></div>Justinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08525632791476548995noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4809997360238924750.post-91895697813698811142010-06-23T15:59:00.000-07:002010-06-23T16:01:38.502-07:00Not In Colorado Anymore<div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_u_neJuBhPZI/TCKR7NB_kNI/AAAAAAAABLY/c5ICLcj6adY/s1600/IMG_3576.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_u_neJuBhPZI/TCKR7NB_kNI/AAAAAAAABLY/c5ICLcj6adY/s400/IMG_3576.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5486107742387015890" border="0" /></a><br />On the way up to the Hallett Boulder, Melissa Strong's photo.<br /></div>Justinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08525632791476548995noreply@blogger.com1