Tuesday, August 19, 2008

New Projects...psyched!


Kevin was in California for a few days to visit his family and I was lucky enough to have him stop by for a single night session. He was particularly eager to try a few of the problems featured in the new Dosage flick and I was of course keen to have a go as well. 

First up was "Park Life," a Tim Clifford test piece that has always intimidated me. This line is seemingly a very temperature dependent problem so I was not too optimistic, but it went way better than expected. We were both able to a bunch of the moves although links were tough because we couldn't beat the heat. Even still, I'm really psyched to have popped my cherry on this one and to try it some more when it cools off.


Next we cruised down the road to "Yabo Roof," the Tommy Caldwell test piece that was originally rated v11, but now that it has seen a few repeats (five by my count) has risen to v12. Neither of us expected the temps to have as much of an impact as they did on "Park Life," but sure enough we both got bouted. I've tried this problem on a few occasions scattered here and there over the last few years, often with mixed success, so I knew not to worry too much about how hard it felt that particular evening. Its a good thing too because I went back last night and reached my previous high point of over a year ago (setting up for the big move right to the sloping pinch). Now I'm psyched and ready to lay siege. 

Its kind of funny how this summer climbing thing works. My expectations are less because of the heat. I feel less pressure (self imposed) to send so I don't feel like I'm wasting time returning to a problem time and time again. As a result, I think I'm really increasing my chances for success down the road. Hmmmmm....


9 comments:

Mandi said...

whoa you popped your cherry on a boulder problem! I've never heard of that before!

btw I'll be in the valley early sept to do the rostrum. I owe you dinner!

JohnClimbRok said...

Did anyone else pop their cherry???

shannon said...

gossip please!

i want valley projects. i'm so sick of the gym that i would sell john into white slavery if it meant i could climb outside more. that's ok for our relationship, right?

Justin said...

Shannon, out of nerdiness or boredom I compiled a list of the 5 best boulder problems in the Valley at every grade. So if you need a project list I'd be happy to share.

Kevin said...

I think its nerdiness cause I did that too for the park.
And selling John into slavery would be a good experience for him.

sock hands said...

post said list with the immediacy.

seriously. [or, doom!]

kevin: if you are kookybitch, please post your park list hereto as well or emailz it to me. pinto's got my address, as well as jemerson, rolson, and all the motley crew.

psyched on lists. psyched on climbing. not psyched on my weakness demonstrated in the gym for the last three weeks. damn olympics keeping me up by night and draining my powa by day.

Kevin said...

I'll get the list to you.

sock hands said...

YOU'RE GODDAMN RIGHT YOU WILL, SON!

sock hands said...

so psyched for the weekdend *i* could even chase some goddamn bears n shit. DANCE FOKERS DANCE! [as me kicks ze bers in ze furry butt] I'LL GIVE YOU A GODDAMN PICK-A-NIK BASKET!!!! AAGGGHHHH!!!

weekend weekend weekend weekend weekend want want want