Kevin was in California for a few days to visit his family and I was lucky enough to have him stop by for a single night session. He was particularly eager to try a few of the problems featured in the new Dosage flick and I was of course keen to have a go as well.
First up was "Park Life," a Tim Clifford test piece that has always intimidated me. This line is seemingly a very temperature dependent problem so I was not too optimistic, but it went way better than expected. We were both able to a bunch of the moves although links were tough because we couldn't beat the heat. Even still, I'm really psyched to have popped my cherry on this one and to try it some more when it cools off.
Next we cruised down the road to "Yabo Roof," the Tommy Caldwell test piece that was originally rated v11, but now that it has seen a few repeats (five by my count) has risen to v12. Neither of us expected the temps to have as much of an impact as they did on "Park Life," but sure enough we both got bouted. I've tried this problem on a few occasions scattered here and there over the last few years, often with mixed success, so I knew not to worry too much about how hard it felt that particular evening. Its a good thing too because I went back last night and reached my previous high point of over a year ago (setting up for the big move right to the sloping pinch). Now I'm psyched and ready to lay siege.
Its kind of funny how this summer climbing thing works. My expectations are less because of the heat. I feel less pressure (self imposed) to send so I don't feel like I'm wasting time returning to a problem time and time again. As a result, I think I'm really increasing my chances for success down the road. Hmmmmm....