Hueco Part 7

Yesterday was a little weird. My body felt strong, I wasn't stiff, I had slept well the night before, but I had no energy and just wanted to nap all day. I tried "Mo' Mojo" again and fell at the last hard move every time I tried. I wasn't really all that upset, I just wanted a nap.

Later in the day Kevin and I were lounging beneath a boulder near the top of East Mountain and I saw a cool looking roof not far off. I went for look despite Kevin's warning that it didn't look like much. After a minute of inspection I quickly decided that this could possibly be the best unclimbed roof in Hueco. I called Kevin over and he was dumbstruck as well. We both thought that there must be a reason it hasn't been climbed before so we looked all over for rock art, burial remains, or 'closed to climbing' signs. None were found. The landing at the end left something to be desired but we were prepared to do it with just our four small Organic pads. After a brief brushing and chalking session I began to climb what might have become the highlight of my trip, an incredible first ascent at the "climbed out" Hueco Tanks.

Here's a video of our day. I apologise for the poor footage of the FA but my batteries died and I couldn't get a different angle. Hopefully we'll go back with friends and I'll get some more media.



Its possible that this movie will be better than the one presented above. Its possible.


PURE - A Bouldering Flick by Chuck Fryberger OFFICIAL TRAILER from Chuck Fryberger on Vimeo.

Hueco Part 6

Kevin on 'Stick or Stones'

KEVIN SENDS! That's right bitches, line up. Kevin the destroyer has sent his project 'Rumble in the Jungle' and is ready to spawn. FERTILE!

I only have a few days of climbing left, which is sad, but I've had a really good trip. Its been a real pleasure staying on the Strong Ranch despite the occasional food raids by Cassidy the Labrador. I really appreciate the generosity of Adam and Melissa for letting us crash on their land and for Kevin and the use of his trailer. The three of them made this trip possible for me. I wouldn't have come for nearly this long if I couldn't have brought my dog.


The trip is not over yet though and I still have a few things I'd like to do before leaving.

Colton trying one of the most spectacularist problems here, 'Best of the Best'

Here's a video of a couple problems from the other day on West Mountain. Enjoy.

Hueco Part 5

The sun has gotten to be a bit much down here. Our skin is suffering because of it. When its hot, we sweat, when we sweat our skin gets soft, when our skin is soft it tears on the rock. We've finally been graced by some clouds and a little wind, but it is a little uncertain how long it will last. All is well though, we're still climbing in the desert, how bad can it be?

Here is an example of how ridiculously fun climbing can be.



Yesterday I decided to try something totally wild...TWO sammiches!!! One of my power sandwiches that is described in full previously and one turkey with cheese, avocado, and spouts. This method seemed to work well because both Kevin and I had a really nice day yesterday, though I'm not sure how my eating habits would effect Kevin's climbing.

Kevin sending "Windy Ass"

Mike has been on a tear lately, here he is working "Bleeding Brothers"

Hueco Part 4

Redemption! Went back to "Dark Age" yesterday to finish up some business and did so, with flawless technique I might add (note: the video below will show the prior comment is to be taken with a heavy dose of sarcasm).



Mike, in addition to providing technical support for my smoke screen effect in the "Dark Age" video, was seen flashing "Fern Roof" just around the corner. Later, he nearly sent "Diaphanous Sea" but fell off the one and only jug on the problem...post crux...sheesh. He found solace in sending both "Loaded With Power" and it's harder counterpart, "Loaded Direct" to finish the day. I was able to follow him up LWP, but only after surviving the scariest spotting duty I've ever undertaken. I was literally shaking after Mike's send of LD. The nature of the climb wasn't all that dangerous but the nature of Mike's climbing was.

From my spies in the East Spur I hear that Kevin had a very good day on a difficult boulder and will send in no time for sure. The Davis contingent is down to 3 brave souls, but we will persevere.

Hueco Part 3

So on my first days East Mtn., East Spur, and North Mtn. I found problems that I thought were difficult but well within my abilities to climb and relatively quickly at that. I've returned to each once apiece and I have no ticks to show for it, Falling at the end of each. Only one of these features a hard move at the end. I'm just running out of gas. It's cool though, this is what I wanted, longer problems on steep rock.

Here's my best/worst attempt on one of these problems yesterday.



Perhaps my power sandwich should be replaced with something similar to Kevin's? Mine consists of Nutella, peanut butter, and marshmallow paste, Kevin's has veggies and turkey and other healthy stuff. I'm open to suggestions.


In other news, Peter has left the desert for temperate California and his J-O-B. Before he left he had a couple of stand out days and even started getting a little greedy! Peter dispatched two projects from the previous year "Warm-up Roof" and "Dragonfly" as well as flashing his first v5, "Hobbit in a Blender" all in one day. On his last climbing day he finished another project, "Lobster Claw" and then began having thoughts of grandeur saying, "I think I could flash it!" referring to a shitty v7.

Re-enacting his send of "Hobbit in a Blender" with a little extra flair

Hueco Part 2

Sorry laddies, I'm taken

Today's rest activity, watching playoff football. On our last rest day Peter, Mike, and I bought athletic warm-up jackets.

I have been gathering projects as of late. I need to go back to each of them and begin dispatching. I returned to one yesterday but it wasn't until the end of the day after wearing myself out on other climbs all day long. As a result I fell on the 14+ move problem on the final foot move twice. Good thing I have a few more days (wink wink).

Beth finally succumbed to the sickness

Mike, trying "Purple Flowers" at the end of the day

Mike trying "Full Monty"

Ryan Silven sending "Uncut Yogi"

Our little compound in west Texas

Hueco Part 1

Well, I've been trying to load photos for about an hour, but to no avail. I'll try and update on my next trip to town with photos. Today, words will have to suffice. Damn.

The drive here to Hueco was pretty uneventful albeit long, my ass is still a little sore and I think my dog was going to mutiny out of boredom. We arrived to really strong winds, which is really the only kind of bad weather we get here. Fortunately, Kevin has a trailer this year so we can hang out, play chess, and cook in the comfortable confines of his Scamp.

My first day climbing was spent on East Mountain. I was guided by Kevin and we were joined at the last minute by Jamie and Angie who were both on "active rest days". I was a little nervous about my fitness and skin condition because over the last week or so I've spent most of my time eating and sitting. While some might praise the benefits of these training methods I find them detrimental to skin toughness and fat burning. As it turns out, my fears were mostly unfounded because I had a really good first day.

On day two the same troupe was joined by Beth, Mike, Patrick, Peter, and Randy. We spent the day hiding from the wind in the East Spur Maze and I think we all had a pretty fantastic day. Peter sent last years project "High Pro-Glo" very quickly as well as the exposed "Fight or Flight". Randy sent both "The Flame" and "Flower Power" and I was able to get up a few things myself. Everyone else either made progress on their personal projects or climbed something fun they'd never done before.

I'm going to try and stay on a "day on, day off" schedule, which means tomorrow will be spent at North Mountain, Friday I'll rest, Saturday another tour??? Who knows?

Till next time...