Thursday, January 15, 2009

Hueco Part 3

So on my first days East Mtn., East Spur, and North Mtn. I found problems that I thought were difficult but well within my abilities to climb and relatively quickly at that. I've returned to each once apiece and I have no ticks to show for it, Falling at the end of each. Only one of these features a hard move at the end. I'm just running out of gas. It's cool though, this is what I wanted, longer problems on steep rock.

Here's my best/worst attempt on one of these problems yesterday.

Perhaps my power sandwich should be replaced with something similar to Kevin's? Mine consists of Nutella, peanut butter, and marshmallow paste, Kevin's has veggies and turkey and other healthy stuff. I'm open to suggestions.

In other news, Peter has left the desert for temperate California and his J-O-B. Before he left he had a couple of stand out days and even started getting a little greedy! Peter dispatched two projects from the previous year "Warm-up Roof" and "Dragonfly" as well as flashing his first v5, "Hobbit in a Blender" all in one day. On his last climbing day he finished another project, "Lobster Claw" and then began having thoughts of grandeur saying, "I think I could flash it!" referring to a shitty v7.

Re-enacting his send of "Hobbit in a Blender" with a little extra flair


Mandi said...

fluffer-nutters with nutella? seriously? and you diss on oreos?

J V said...

what happened? did your foot slip???

sock hands said...

kevin also eats ground up honeybee anuses or something like that to metabolize his hippy food... stick w/ your own recipies!

maybe eat one of those yosemite bears and you can steal its life-force to get rugged at the end of these projects?

what has always been good for me during long days is active rest.... instead of sitting around between burns, i walk around, pee on things, talk smack at other climbers around the corner, scamper all over creation to get better photo angles, etc. when i sit still, i feel very lethargic and that the 'rest' was counter productive and actually turned me off. i once read that the science behind active rest is that your blood keeps circulating without strain, thereby reducing the build up of lactic acid, reoxegenating your lazyass muscle cells, and when combined with smack talk, it allows you to steal the mojo of treacherous youth like kevin. basically, the harder you push down the treacherous youth, the higher you will rise. it's SCIENCE, bitch!

sock hands said...

omg i just watched the video... i would totally look for children [kevin?] to kick to dispell the rage i'd have with a robbery like that! holy hell! it would be better if i had my dogs there to kick on a bit, but kevin should be a good substitute. or, since i couldn't even pull my ass off the ground on that line when i tried it, perhaps i'll kick my doggers for you.. and for me...

jealous rage!

the analog freak said...

Here's what you do:
-peanut butter
-salame (veggie, I suppose, for the non-swine eaters)
-trail mix (with lots of raisins and heaps of M&Ms)

Wrap it up and eat it. It's my favorite backpacking dish when I'm all alone and have no one to make fun of me.

Justin said...

Holy crap Andy that sounds awful!

JJ, there is wisdom in your words...somewhere. I do my best to be an active rester, that is heckle, piss, and walk under people who are climbing, but sometimes lying down sounds like a lot more fun.

the analog freak said...

Ah, Justin. The only people who think that meal is awful are the ones who have never eaten it. Which includes basically the entire world's population except me, but still, eat it, love it, you will send by sheer force of yr flatus propelling you up problems of unbelievable difficulty. I mean it.