Taking a Look in the Mirror

This is an excerpt from and interview with Jean-Baptist 'Jibe' Tribout.

Most of the time I fail, but it doesn’t matter, because my goal is to succeed, instead of “not to fail”. This means I can be much more relaxed when I climb, and as every climber knows, it’s very important.

Jibe is 46 now and until recently had not been climbing seriously for about 10 years. He has already climbed as hard as 5.14b and he claims that he is nowhere near as strong as in his youth. He attributes much of his recent success to a new attitude toward climbing. The wisdom quoted above is a recent revelation, discovered in the absence of the self-imposed pressures many climbers subject themselves to.

I have to admit that when I'm climbing something particularly important to me the thoughts that creep into my head mid-climb are often along the lines of 'don't fail'. This bothers me for several reasons:

1. This train of thought doesn't manifest itself exclusively in climbing situations.
2. Its obviously counter productive.
3. This thought process can transform a recreational activity into something more akin to work.

Don't get me wrong, this isn't something I deal with everyday out climbing, far from it in fact. I can name a half dozen or so occasions (long term projects) when this became a real problem. Of course there are minor occurrences from time to time but they are usually insignificant. Last weekend for instance, while trying to top out a new problem I definitely thought "don't fail" but that was mostly out of concern for my safety and I have no regrets about that. Still, how does one deal with this type of negative thinking?

To be quite frank about this, I've been thinking a lot about going back to school over the last six months or so. I've more or less decided it is something I want to do and yet I'm having difficulty being proactive about it because of this type of negative thinking.

I understand the principals behind Jibe's wisdom but putting it in practice is something entirely different. What am I missing?

More Evidence That I'm Tired

Shortly after writing the post below I hit myself in the face with a car door. I know you're probably asking yourself, 'why would you do something like that Justin?' Well, the answer is I'm sleepy and I can't be bothered with such questions.

I've been better

All patched up

Update: I just woke up and thankfully I slept pretty well. Unfortunately my forehead still aches. At least the band-aid makes me look tough, right?

Sleeplessness

I need a decent nights sleep. I've had two really bad nights sleep preceded by one mediocre night and that resulted in a grump that can't climb much of anything. I didn't even bother going to 'Dogwood' today even though I had people ready and willing to spot. I did try 'X' finally with Raza, that was cool and HARD.

Yesterday was a bit more productive. First of all, a couple of Yosemite's finest highballs got totally gang-banged. 'Shiver Me Timbers' was the first to get the beating. I think Lyn, Beth, Becky, John, Theo, and some other dude all did it (not sure about the order). Then around the corner, 'Pinball Wizard' got shown who's boss by the same crew except for "some other dude".

Later, in a far off land that will not be described in this blog space, the posse descended upon several freshly scrubbed blocs courtesy of Mr. Chandler. There is one yet-to-be-named problem several of us did that is definitely first rate. A hard start, followed by a heady finish, with several solutions... Vintage Yosemite.

Speaking of vintage Yosemite, here's a video featuring two problems that fit that description perfectly. The first problem featured is 'Pinball Wizard,' the second is a new problem that Randy put up recently. If you don't already know where it is don't bother asking because I'm not at liberty to share. Deal with it!


A little slice of heaven from Princess on Vimeo.

Jealous?

Some Things I'm Psyched on Right Now

Woodies

Cleaning new boulders

New Solutions

Training and Yosemite

For the past month or so I've been driving down to Oakland to train at the Great Western Power Company. I could probably spend more time climbing outdoors right now, but my number one focus is to get into the best shape of my climbing life for my trip to South Africa this summer. Its okay too because I actually really enjoy the workouts. Last night, for example, I climbed, did some rings, some weighted hangs, and finished with a little more climbing for a 5 1/2 hour workout. I'm already feeling sore and I love it.

I'm really grateful for all of my friends who have been (and will continue to be) such great training partners. It really wouldn't be the same without you all. Training alone can be cool but the down time gets dull quick and the sessions become shorter and a lot less productive so thanks for all of your motivation and energy guys and gals.

Of course I'm not so loopy as to have forgotten real rock all together. In fact, I made my first trip back to the Valley last week and it was perfect. It felt so good to be hanging in the forest with good friends and perfect stone. I only climbed on stuff that was new to me too! Didn't even stop by to say hello to 'Dogwood', that's a big step for me. Hopefully the weather will cooperate and I'll have a chance to try it in the next few days though.

I have some video from one of my new favorite problems but its going to have to wait until I get some other problems recorded before I put the footage up. It'll be worth the wait, the newness is quintessential Yosemite climbing courtesy of Randy Puro. Very choice.

Just returned from Joe's Valley. It was a great albeit brief trip. I had a blast hanging out with Becky, Chandler, Monica, Alan, Amna, Lianne, Noah, Siemay, and everyone else that we hung out with over the course of the week. The highlight of the trip, for me at least, has to be my last-day of the trip revenge send of 'The Wind Below'. My first attempt at this problem came exactly a year and ten days prior to the second attempt. The first did not end well for me. My second attempt (without the heelhook beta) ended with success.

Chandler and Becky both had great last-day sends as well. Scott, climbing for his third consecutive day, managed to put the outstanding 'Beyond Life' to rest. Becky managed to dispatch the somewhat heady and equally outstanding 'Wills of Fire'. She did it with the dramatic flair of Siemay's send just moments before and earned herself a second flapper to boot.

To recap the rest of the trip I've put together another poor quality video. I decided to use Vimeo this time because of the better resolution. Now if I can just get a tripod and an HD camera you might get something decent out of me. This video is a bit longer. I'm curious if this approach is better than putting together several shorts. Maybe a mix is best? Anyhoo, here it is.


Joe's Valley09 from justin alarcon on Vimeo.

I'm in a MAJOR Motion Picture!!!

Check this out! I'm so excited, I think I'm going to go growl at something. Finally, after all this time I'm making my big screen debut. See if you can guess which character I am.

Also...Today was a rest day for Becky and I, but Scott, Monica, and Lianne decided to climb at the (slightly) warmer area Triassic. I'd never been before so we met up with them to scope the place out. We only visited one area and it seemed pretty sweet although a bit lacking in the more difficult boulder problems. A couple lines stood out, 'Desparete,' 'Lemonhead,' and a cool slab that isn't in the topo. The place is definitely worth a look.

Here is Lianne sending the cool unknown slab.