Hueco Part I

So, our flight was scheduled to leave Sacramento International Airport at 6:35 in the morning. That means my alarm goes off at 4:15am (I went to bed at approx. 1:30am). Check in and boarding goes smoothly. Peter and I, with caffeinated beverages in tow, think that despite the heavy rain and wind we'll be off in no time, bouldering at the Texan mecca Hueco Tanks in a couple of hours.





At about the time we should have taken off, our captain informs us all that there exists a gyro-thing-a-ma-gig in the plane that has not been aligned, and without which, we can not take off. It'll only be a matter of minutes he assures us. The wind, you see, is rocking the plane too much the gyros can't align! Like a sea captain without his compass our pilot plods about the runway trying to find our leeward salvation. I remarked on several occasions during this manic search that the leeward side would be found on the opposite side of the terminal, but no one seemed to listen. After two hours, and only after watching another Southwest plane successfully takeoff for El Paso, we were all informed that the flight had been cancelled.

This guy seemed to know what he was doing so I thought I'd do the same.

Peter and I mobilized into action. We picked up our luggage, re-booked flights for later that evening and called for a shuttle to take us home to rest. At least we could get one last decent meal and maybe catch a few more winks.

Alas, we arrived home in time to witness a hurricane bitch slap Peter's infant home. The side gate was snapped in two, the climbing wall's roof was under threat of being carried off by pterodactyls, and the house was leaking. I could see the look on his face. It read, "to whom it may concern, what the fuck is going on? My head is about to explode. I don't think I'm going to Hueco anymore." This wasn't good. I did my best to help by going to get myself some lunch and dry clothes. Meanwhile, Peter busied himself by running to the hardware store, patching the roof, defending the climbing wall, and ignoring the gate.

In the end, the castle was saved and the people returned to their normal lives.

Round two of the flights went well. Aside from an enormous line to check-in (apparently we weren't the only ones who had a flight cancelled) we could finally breathe a sigh of relief. Kevin greeted us at the airport and took us to our final destination. It was dark when we arrived and there was no moon. It wasn't until morning that we got our first glimpse.

FUUUUUCCCKKK!!!!!!

Just before the hurt begins

Yesterday started out nicely. I warmed up on a couple of nice problems at the Kraft Boulders, among those was the classic "the Pearl". It was classic. Yeah! We then headed over to the Monkey Bar boulder where I flashed the "Monkey Bar Traverse". I was feeling saucey so I decided to try the direct start to the previous problem. On the flash attempt I mistook a thumb-catch for a two finger pocket and when my feet cut I felt an 'electric' shock shoot from the tip of my finger to the middle of my forearm. There was no audible sound, but I knew pretty much instantly that my day/trip was over as far as climbing was concerned. Actually, my main worry was the thought that I might not be able to climb on my up coming Hueco trip. Later that evening I gave my friend Noah a call to consult with him about my injury. Noah is a climber and an MD who loves trauma patients. He assured me that he knew exactly what happened from my discription and that it was not a serious injury in the long run. Basically, if I follow his instructions it will heal 100%. That is good news. Bad news is that I won't be able to climb my hardest in Hueco. I've waited a long time to go there and it is pretty disapointing that my first trip will be handcuffed like this. The rocks aren't going anywhere though so I guess I'll just have to go back when I'm strong as an ox.

In other news...

Peter (ahem... Nancy) and I are now gambling addicts. Nancy likes to bet the ponies and I can't get enough of football. I'm planning on putting all of my savings on Falcons this weekend, its a 'can't miss' game.

Well, for now Peter is going to continue to climb rocks and I'm going to heckle him and stuff my face. I'll probably have more fun. Take that tendon!

Vegas Baby!

Peter on "Underwhere?"

So, yesterday we spent the afternoon bouldering in Moe's Valley in St. George, Utah. It was a pretty cool spot with potential for more. Turtle had a particularly good time running free in the sun.


We decided to continue south in hopes of escaping the incoming storm so we motored down I-15 to Las Vegas, and the vaunted Red Rocks. I've been here a couple of times before, but just to climb routes, I've not yet bouldered here and neither has Peter. Speaking of Peter, he was so caught up in the Vegas experience he asked me if we could have strippers delivered to our campsite. I assured him that that would probably not fly and that we didn't have that kind of money to spend. Maybe if we hit it big at the roulette table tonight...

"The Beast"

Lots of Snow Here...

...We're moving south.

I'm Famous!

Ha ha! yeah right. I am, however, currently featured in a short bouldering video on Momentum Video Magazine's website. Mike Call (MC) was here for a brief visit a few weeks ago and took some footage of me climbing on the "Pine Box". The footage is from the Sunday prior to when I actually sent. Fortunately, through the magic of the movies MC makes it look like I did it then... they'll never know!

Anyway, it costs money to watch but it is totally worth it because you'll get to see me climb in a pair of women's pink pants (which I wore on the real ascent too). A friend gave them to me a few days before on the condition that I rocked them bouldering from time to time. Little did I know how comfortable they are to climb in. In fact, they're easily the most comfortable pants I've ever climbed in so I'll be holding them on reserve for those special occasions when I need a little extra sending power.

Oh, if you're a total cheap ass you can just wait till you see me next and I'll log on to the site so you can watch it then.

Thanksgiving Tradition

In all of my climbing life I've had four projects that have taken a hold of me unlike all the others. These projects engaged my attention so completely that all other objectives fell by the wayside. The first three projects were all single pitch routes and I only succeeded in climbing one of those. The most recent is a boulder problem called "Pine Box." Regardless of the outcome, each of these projects have been the most rewarding learning experiences of my climbing life.

I first discovered the "Pine Box" in September 2006 while participating in the Yosemite Climber Association's annual clean-up, the Yosemite Facelift. I volunteered, along with several other chaps, to go up to the south face of Half Dome to carry out nearly 700lbs. of cable and steel pipe that had been dropped from the top by trail crews nearly 20 years ago. From our staging point at the Happy Isles water tank I couldn't help but notice the large boulders surrounding us. I slipped away from the group for a few minutes and stumbled upon what would become the
"Pine Box" and I knew I had to come back. Several months later, when it was a bit colder I returned. My vision from the beginning was that the problem should start from a sitting position, but I couldn't manage the giant spans. I was able to do it from a several stand-starts, but never the full sit. I showed it to a few friends and soon my Swedish friend Oskar made the first ascent. I came frustratingly close last spring, but I was still unable to link it all together.

While projecting I bounce back in fourth between ecstatic enthusiasm and optimism and battles with insomnia, depression and self-doubt. Worse yet, I'm afraid my friends and family felt the brunt of my mood swings. All for something that probably seemed so trivial. Late last spring I came to the conclusion that I needed a break, I was headed down a negative path and I wanted this project to be a positive experience.

Fast forward to Autumn, 2007. After two months of building a base of easier boulder problems I'm finally feeling like my body and the weather is good enough to return to the project. I'm hesitant however. In my previous experiences with sieging a project I've never picked up a project that I'd left undone. Of course, I always intend to go back and in many ways I still do, but for one reason or another I've left those projects behind. I think part of it comes from not wanting to return to that negative state of being. I think another part of my apprehension comes from the fear that the extra time spent working the project will be time wasted. In the end the potential positives out-weighed the negatives and I returned, as my friend Paul would say, "to slay the dragon."

The first day on was just a chance to re-acquaintance myself with the problem. It felt hard, but not out of reach. Optimism is regained. The second day is tough. A bunch of friends have come along and the cameras are rolling. I'm frustrated because I feel stuck at my old crux sequence. I am motivated, however, by watching my good friend Kevin climb the problem. At this point only four people have climbed "Pine Box" all of whom are taller and have longer arms than I do. I don't like making my height an excuse, but for me this problem requires a totally different sequence that is by all accounts much more intense.

On day three I make a go at it alone. Maybe the solitude will help? Alas, it is not to be. I do make some progress, but I haven't even returned to my high point of the previous Spring. I return home in a foul mood. My friends do their best to lift my spirits and it helps some, but not enough. I can feel myself drifting toward that dark place in my mind. I even entertain thoughts of quiting, "I'll give it 1,2,3 days more and then I'm done, that's it." Then I remember, last year on Thanksgiving I sent my hardest problem to date, the "Thong Cave." It was not an all-consuming project, yet it was still a major achievement for me. Perhaps I would have similar luck this Thanksgiving?

I woke up this morning and immediately set into my pre-planned routine.

1. make some tea
2. eat a banana
3. do some yoga while watching bouldering videos
4. make and eat a sandwich with peanut butter, Nutella, and puff (marshmallow spread)
5. get changed and go climbing.

Even my warm-up was more deliberate than usual and thankfully the weather was prime, very cold and very dry. On my first attempt I reached my high point from the previous Spring. My first reaction was one of frustration, but quickly changed to one of optimism. I had improved and it didn't feel that hard. Instead of trying again right away I forced myself to take a walk. I let my mind wander and my focus slowly drifted away from the project to all the new boulders I was seeing. After a while (who knows how long) I decided it was time to try again. From the moment I exhaled as I began the first movements, till the moment I was hanging from the high holds that mark the end of the crux, I was climbing unconscious. It is impossible to describe, but it was amazing. When I realized where I was I took over my body and became very deliberate about my movements and my breathing. Moments later I was screaming at the top. If I wasn't so pumped full of adrenaline I probably would have cried.

This experience, has been so rewarding. I don't think I've fully wrapped my mind around it all, but I've already learned so much. Some people would probably scoff at the process and think that it is ludicrous to invest so much time and energy into climbing a little rock that I could easily walk up from the other side. Those people are the same people that are content living in a pacified society that doesn't often test the fabric of our beings. I'm not one of those people. While I recognise that the significance of this project does not extend beyond my own selfish world, I also know that the experience has made me a stronger person and better able to face those challenges that do have meaning to the rest of the world, my friends, and my family.

Thanks to everyone that encouraged me or suffered from my mood swings, I couldn't have done it without you. Fifteen days of attempts over a years time and it was all worth it.


Happy Thanksgiving-

For Peter

So I was told recently, in no uncertain terms, that I need to update my blog more. Well, I appologize and I'm happy to know that at least one person is deriving some entertainment from my banter.

The drought in postings is due in part to the fact that I've been taking less pictures no that John has setteled into the house. His photos are so much better than mine I end up leaving the picture taking to him, or I pick up his camera and start snapping. Using his toy certainly motivates me to make a little money some day to upgrade. The other reason I've taken less photos is that I've been bouldering a ton lately. Some FA's some established problems, everything is excellant. When I get some pics of the new stuff I'll post on Betabase.

A lot of people I've talked to recently have been asking me if I've been climbing a lot of routes lately. This is a perfectly uderstandable question given my current residence, but I feel like I'm letting people down when I say "no". Throughout most of my climbing life I've been most interested in and taken pride in being an all-around climber. I feel like this interest has served me well and has honed my skills more than if I was only focused on either sport climbing, tradional climbing, or bouldering alone. Along the way I've always set personal goals for myself, some lofty, some not so much. In hindsight I've achieved many of my easier goals, but the more ambitious ones have usually elluded me. It is because of this that I've temporarily put my sport and traditional climbing goals on hold to focus on several lofty (for me) bouldering goals. So, while just going bouldering in Yosemite may be blasphamey to some, to me it means the oppritunity to make my dreams a reality. Was that a little cheesey?

Here is a shot John took of me on a problem call "Pommel Horse" at the Ahwahnee Boulders the other night. Usually it finishes right but it was so dark that I couldn't see the holds that way, even with a headlamp, so I went slightly left.